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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Den Danna 1980s
Page Views: 1,241 total, 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 23, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

As i was lowering off of Scene of the Crime (5.10a) the other day i noticed a direct line straight out the roof and up to the chains that i hadn't noticed before. I took note that a red or orange TCU would protect the upper crux section. I had no idea if it had been done before but i thought I'd give it a go. Today I climbed the variation and it was super cool with a few fun moves that keep you on your toes. I asked a guy at the crag that seemed like he had been around a while if the line had been done before and he informed me that he did the first ascent of it in the 80's. How weird is that, he just happened to be there. Anyway he gave me the name of the route and his name and told me that it was in the first Rumney guide book (which he wrote) as 5.11a, i told him that i agreed with the grade and that was that.

Sorry if that was a boring story here is the description you were looking for.

Climb through the crux of Scene of the Crime (5.10a) till you get to the roof where that route breaks right. clip a long draw on the fourth bolt and break through the roof on small holds and sinking your fingers in to an unlikely slot in the face (this is where you want to protect). get your feet up on to the face and make one or two delicate moves on tiny holds to latch the top. Mantel and clip.

If you don't care to lead it, it would be a nice top rope variation.

Location

This is a direct finish to Scene of the Crime 5.10a. climb that route to the roof and continue out the roof to the top.

Protection

4 bolts and one piece in a slot on the above the roof. i was able to put in an orange and a red TCU in the same spot but one or the other would do fine.

Photos

Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.11a PG13
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.11a PG13
This route is definitely better than Scene of the Crime. The lead is kind of committing because the gear goes in after you mantle the face (at least that is what I did). but if you're solid at the grade it is not dangerous, but man would that fall hurt if you blew the mantle. Mar 29, 2015
S. Neoh  
I think I can speak for Den and our friend Maria A that it is fantastic that this variation is enjoying so much renewed attention. BITD, most of us just did it on TR. Great to learn that the next gen is going about it in better form. Apr 8, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11a
I TRed this route yesterday and found it to be really enjoyable with a fun roof and cool delicate face climbing, I will definitely be back to lead this one. Jun 10, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Lee, when did you sneak gear into that finger slot in the middle of the face... after you got your hands above it? It is pretty much the only solid hold on the face, so I guess you have to balance on the little crimps while you plug the gear?

This variation is really fun, and definitely worth trying on TR after you finish the normal route. May 24, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I did this one again today but skipped all the bolts... it made it a little more interesting for sure... i did clip the old rusty pin... Nov 23, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
leading it is no big deal as the gear is right where you want it and you can even double up you protection as i did... May 24, 2008
Ladd    
I've done this one as well, it is kinda nice, flows decent and follows a more direct line to the anchors, although I don't know about the leading potential since I've only TRed it after doing scene of the crime. May 24, 2008