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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tim Kemple Sr. and Steve Smith (i think that was his name?)
Page Views: 1,269 total, 14/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 5, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is a new route by Tim Kemple Sr. and a friend. He asked me to try it today to see what I thought of the grade etc. It's still a bit scuzzy but has some nice moves on it. The route is much easier down low and harder and steeper up high. For this reason they put a mid way anchor on it.

Half Nelson 5.7- down hill and right of Men In White Suites (5.9) look for a corner with bolts. Climb very moderate moves to a head wall. 5.7/5.8 ish climbing up the headwall gets to a mantel and the first anchor. Lower off or continue on...

Full Nelson 5.11b- This upper section is very crimpy and pretty steep. 5.10 ish climbing leads to a hard boulder problem to rach the chains. Finding the holds is the hard part as of now. Once it is cleaner it will be easier to navigate.

Still a bit dirty and brittle. This will be less of a problem the more love it sees so give it a try.

Location

Down hill and right of Men in White Suites.

Protection

8 bolts to the top i think. Ring anchors on both, top and midway anchor.

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Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11d
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11d
Soon, the holds are sharp, but not too sharp. No way as bad as Gulliver's. This one is pretty crimpy, though. Make sure your fingers are Ondra-strong! Oct 14, 2017
S. Neoh  
Been eyeing this one for an attempt when we have dry and cool condition. How sharp are the holds, Nick and Daniel? If close to say Gulliver's Travels, I will likely give this rig a pass.
Thanks! Oct 8, 2017
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
  5.11b
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
  5.11b
I'd chime in and say it can feel much harder on the onsight attempt (4-falls my first try? - 11-c or something?) but a bit soft on the redpoint if you know the moves well (11a/b maybe?) Those holds are small and sharp, I'd say 11b feels right..

edit:
V - I second what Nick said below - V Oct 8, 2017
Cavan O
Somerville, MA
  5.11b
Cavan O   Somerville, MA
  5.11b
First time at this part of Main Wall, myself and another lead this before heading to venus wall without looking at any info about the climb. The first section is over before you really want it to be so we decided to keep going up, didnt notice any loose bolts.

The hardest part about the climb is the last bolt and anchors. its hard finding the best holds to grab which i didnt do so i made it harder then it needed to be. If you get to the anchors and are not holding on to anything good then keep going up and left of chains, there are good holds to clip anchors from. In the end i guess it could be 5.11b considering the size of a few of the holds May 22, 2017
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11d
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11d
All the bolts were fine. No worries there. But I found the crimping at the top of this route HARD. Like the top of Pulse. Jul 16, 2016
TimInCT  
Nice moves in the early section past the scramble, but after reaching the halfway anchor and getting a few moves into the interesting and harder second half, I decided to back down after finding the next bolt rather loose. I downclimbed and found, like coverbird above, that the right bolt at the anchor was even looser. Could use some attention. Oct 11, 2015
Half Nelson only: Great climb, however the right bolt at the anchor is quite loose. It wiggles up and down in the hole. That was a showstopper for us. Jul 6, 2015
Padraig
 
Padraig  
 
This climb could still use some clean up work. It felt pretty dirty and sharp as I led it, and when my buddy TR'ed it after, pebbles were raining down. A baseball sized chunk left of the second to last bolt also broke off in his hand as he climbed past it.
I can't comment on the grade; I wasn't expecting 11.something territory and couldn't piece together the crux sequence, but I would like to try this again. It seemed like there were two ways to get up past the last two bolts. We both went up the right, but I thought the left seemed more like the intention. I would be interested to see the ratings for each.
One other note: the links on the chains at the top are not large enough to accept a biner. After trying that, I tried hanging draws from the quick-links on the hangers. This left the draws a bit too far apart, so I had to hang the draws on the rap rings on the ends of the chains. It would be a little nicer to have some larger links up there, but it's manageable as it is. Nov 13, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
I saw this while it was in the process of being bolted, looks pretty cool. it does cross the trad route Brendan's Bitches 5.6 but this route will probably get much more attention, and provides a bolt for the poorly protected Brendan's Bitches 5.6 so it could be an added bonus. Oct 5, 2010