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Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 1.6 from 38
votes
Routes in Armed and Dangerous (Main Cliff Left)
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[Redacted] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cloud Atlas S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5- |
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Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Greener Pastures S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sesame Street S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Buttress, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tim Kemple Sr. and Steve Smith (i think that was his name?) |
| Page Views: | 2,835 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Oct 5, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
This is a new route by Tim Kemple Sr. and his friend, Steve Smith. He asked me to try it today to see what I thought of the grade etc. It's still a bit scuzzy but has some nice moves on it. The route is much easier down low and harder and steeper up high. For this reason they put a mid way anchor on it.
Half Nelson 5.7- ( more 5.8-ish now as a flake has broken off some time ago) down hill and right of Men In White Suites (5.9) look for a corner with bolts. Climb very moderate moves to a head wall. 5.7/5.8 ish climbing up the headwall gets to a mantel and the first anchor. Lower off or continue on...
Full Nelson 5.11b- This upper section is very crimpy and pretty steep. 5.10 ish climbing leads to a hard boulder problem to rach the chains. Finding the holds is the hard part as of now. Once it is cleaner it will be easier to navigate.
Still a bit dirty and brittle. This will be less of a problem the more love it sees so give it a try.
12 Comments