Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 2,285 total, 111/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 11, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


59 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

For years route developers (my self included) looked at this face and failed to see this line that Chris Smith's well trained eye managed to pick out. When he told me about the line he could read the skepticism on my face and said "I know ::shrug:: go see for your self, it's good". He's Right! A pretty short but very engaging line climbs the already shared start of Metamorphosis and Clusterphobia (Though an added bolt will make it less of a cluster) and breaks right in to the steep wall.

Follow the rail to the right after the relatively easy start. This rail gets less possessive as you move farther right. When the rail ends, a powerful move gets you to a jug and a clip. The crux involves an obvious underling crimp and the crimps above which will get you to a jug and the chain anchors.

My take away from the climb was that I loved the subtle footwork and weight shifts that were necessary for me to make the crux holds work.

Location

look to the left of the birch tree on the elevated ledge, This is the line of stainless glue-ins on the steep face.

Protection

5(?) shiny glue-ins to the chain anchor.

Photos

The Beaver
  5.11c
The Beaver  
  5.11c
Got this today; the undercling is still pretty good (if it was even broken?). My two cents on the grade is 5.11c . Standing at 5'6" is usually a hinderance but I think it may actually work to my advantage when locking into the undercling. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ May 10, 2017
Graham O.
  5.11c
Graham O.  
  5.11c
This would be my hardest flash if it gets a .12a consensus. Fun, but felt easier than Apocalypse. Aug 5, 2016
KCraig
Lebanon, NH
KCraig   Lebanon, NH
I climbed this again last week after making an ascent in early march soon after the FA. I couldn't tell a difference. If the undercling broke, it certainly didn't feel noticeably smaller, and the grade is unaffected.

Fun little route and a great addition to this cliff! Jul 25, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.12a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.12a
The undercling broke? How big was it before? Now, it's a two-finger job (just the pads) with a thumb pinch. Jul 16, 2016
Aaron Hwang
  5.11b/c
Aaron Hwang  
  5.11b/c
I was on this route this past weekend and the weekend before. Don't know how the undercling was before but if it's THE undercling on the route that broke, it's still there and it's not bad. the route still goes and is still one of the best routes on the wall. Jun 22, 2016
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
You broke the undercling crimp? How bad is it now? Jun 20, 2016
Derek Jf
Northeast
 
Derek Jf   Northeast
 
I broke the undercling and your rope in one burn.... This route has it out for me. I still feel bad about that core shot Adam May 8, 2016
irujo
  5.11d
irujo  
  5.11d
Very fun. Make sure to extend the third draw!!! About 8 inches below the third is a very sharp hold, my friend fell there and it cut through the sheathing on my relatively new rope. May 2, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.11+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11+
Fun route, quite bouldery. It helps a lot to pre-inspect on your way down from climbing Metamorphosis so you are not hanging out mid crux wondering which holds to go for. You will want to execute quickly! This may actually be easier for shorter people as long as you have some power. Mar 21, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Glad to see this put up, nice work Chris! Mar 14, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.11+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11+
So true. I need an army of helpers. I hope to get up there this weekend and check out Chris's latest creation. Mar 11, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
share and share alike i guess haha... we all know that guy Mark has more vision than he can keep up with ;) Mar 11, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.11+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11+
I'm not sure Chris had the original vision first ;) , but I'll give him the much due credit of actually doing the work to get it done :) Mar 11, 2016
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12a
Fun little route! It was hiding in plain sight all these years until Chris had the vision.

I called it 12a, mostly because this cliff needs a 5.12. Also it felt similar in difficulty to Peanut Man. Mar 11, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Please chime in on the grade when you do it so we can get to a consensus :) Mar 11, 2016
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
Not only did nobody else have the eye for this line, but the other attempt at a route up this face (15 feet to the right through nasty, broken rock) never gets climbed.

I'm glad to see a stout line through nice rock get established right in plain sight. And after watching a couple sends last weekend, the moves look awesome. Too hard for me right now, though.

This one is sure to be popular. Mar 11, 2016
Joe M.    
I miss climbing with Chris back here in RI, so unassuming but always psyched and encouraging. Glad to hear he is still putting up new routes that no one else had the eye for! Mar 11, 2016