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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Keith Becansoll 2011
Page Views: 2,641 total, 38/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

One of the new heavily cleaned routes on the right side of A+d wall. This one is reported to still be a bit dusty but getting better with traffic, cleaning and weather.

Climb a tough roof to gain easier climbing to the anchor. An easier variation is to be added to the right making a nice moderate climb.

Location

Start at the big block that sits in the middle of the trail between A+D and Ali Babbler. Climb out the crux roof to an easier finish.

Protection

Bolts to anchor.

Photos

Troy S
Somerville, MA
  5.10a
Troy S   Somerville, MA
  5.10a
If you're using a mono undercling on a 10a, you're probably doing it wrong. May 28, 2017
J Meagher
  5.10a
J Meagher  
  5.10a
I agree with the above comments, the clips on the roof section are a bit reachy. For what it's worth, I feel Arugula, Arugula is slightly easier and also the better of the two. Nov 8, 2014
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
5.10b
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
5.10b
Not sure what I did differently, but I was able to clip the bolt in the roof from below without touching the crux holds. I stood further left and did have to downclimb a step to set up correctly for the crux. I'm 5'11" with a neutral index.

A 5'5" tall lady I was climbing with was also able to touch the bolt from below, but for her it was a stretch.

Maybe a body position issue for those having trouble?

All that said: wow, the crux killed me. Very hard for me to get the right position to make it go without struggling. I climbed it hips left and hips right: about the same amount of strenuousness both ways. I gotta lose weight! Jul 2, 2014
liam
 
liam  
 
There's a mono undercling I used that made it much easier to get your right hand onto the layback hold to clip the crux bolt. Plus, by using it, it's like you're giving the finger to the rock. Aug 5, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
They each have their own anchors. Jul 28, 2013
Does FFF share anchors with The Maltese (or Milquetoast) Falcon? Jul 28, 2013
Andrew A.
Southbridge, MA
Andrew A.   Southbridge, MA
Just climbed this route the other weekend. It was a lot of fun, but the clip right out of the roof is funky. I took a take on that bolt and as I weighted the draw it would open up my carabiner gate. Not the most encouraging sight on what I felt to be the crux clip. My gate was facing right, so maybe if it had been left all would have been good. Just a heads up. Jul 7, 2013
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9+
Very fun route, and a fine addition to the Armed and Dangerous area. Helps spread out the hoards a bit! I thought the crux was fairly short, and not as hard as "Armed and Dangerous". Felt more in line with the 9+ at Bonsai. Mar 17, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.10a/b
Finally did the route shown in the photo that Ming took and posted. Yeah, getting the draw into bolt#4 (on the initial steep head wall) requires a good stretch.
I did the route a body length or less to the left of this route a few months ago. I thought it is quite enjoyable and maybe 1 letter grade easier than this one. Oct 27, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10b
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10b
I am going to make one suggestion, and maybe it's bad, but: I think there should be one more bolt between bolts 3 and 4. I had to clip bolt 4 from the crux hold, and had I fallen from there I would have hit the slab below pretty hard. In the video I posted I can clip the rope if the draw is already there, but I am also 6 feet tall with a positive ape index. I would suggest, in the interest of safety, another bolt a foot or 2 below bolt #4. Sep 26, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10b
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10b
Short video of the crux.
youtube.com/watch?v=AgDJBji… Sep 24, 2012
iBolt  
Mark, you caught me: I was just having a little "fun with botany."

The "Latin name" of Arugula is Eruca sativa. If i remember correctly, "Eruca" is from Latin meaning some sort of cabbage and "sativa" means something like "cultivated" or "grown."

And perhaps, I was having mild hallucinations. (I will say that many of the other responses in these Rumney forums have seemed a little "hallucinogenic" lately...)

Years ago, I had an after-dinner liquor made by an older Italian gentleman that was made with arugula. It was like "lemoncello" but with a pepper taste instead of lemon... He served it ice cold.

I believe almost everything else I wrote is basically true....

iBolt Aug 10, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
"I believe arugula is related to sativa and may be slightly hallucinogenic"

Wishful thinking. Sativa merely is the adjectival part of the name meaning cultivated. Arugula is in the order of Brassicaceae, while Cannabis is in the order of Rosales. You would have to go back to the clade Eudicot to have them in the same group.. You should know that IBolt. Aug 10, 2012
iBolt  
Hard to tell from the photo; but, it may be another Becansoll classic, "Arugula, Arugula...."

A little background: "Arugula" is a vegetable frequently used as a salad green and is popular in Italian cuisine. It's also known as "rocket" or "rucola," depending how pretentious the restaurant serving the salad is...

I believe argula is related to sativa and may be slightly hallucinogenic.

As for the grade; it felt easier than "Far from Feral" but harder than "Milktoast Falcon."

It's an independent line (it doesn't squeeze any pre-existing routes), the falls are safe (there's no trees to hit) and it's clean (the holds don't fall off when you grab them...)

Hope this helps!

iBolt Aug 10, 2012
Gunks
Gunks, NY
Gunks   Gunks, NY
The bolt line is just to the left of Far from Feral. If you look at the picture of FFF the new route starts on the slab about 7-10 feet to the left of FFF and goes through the widest part of the roof. Aug 10, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
In between Feral and Toxic Gumbo? Aug 9, 2012
Gunks
Gunks, NY
Gunks   Gunks, NY
There is a bolt line on climber's left of Far from Ferel. Anyone has any info on this climb? Aug 9, 2012
Ming
  5.10a
Ming  
  5.10a
Fun roof pull - feels 10A when the draws are hung. Cool roof pull that feels easier than the 2nd crux of Armed & Dangerous - the hand is better than it looks when laid back and the feet is pretty solid if you spot it in advance. It was a bit reachy for short people like me (I have a reach of a 5.2 person) to hang the crux draw. We did this + M. Falcon linkup but getting to the belay bolt at Millennium Falcon was really dirty at this point - but it seems like a logical 1st pitch to it. Jun 21, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
oops sorry for the typos... i fixed it up... Apr 6, 2012
keith b  
Hey Lee,

Thanks for posting the information.

Fa's were 2011.

This one is called Far From Feral, (not form).

kb Apr 5, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
Ah... I have been wondering about these! Looks like fun! Apr 5, 2012