Type: Sport
FA: Tom Bowker, Jay Golden 3/86
Page Views: 3,593 total · 26/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 2, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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148 Opinions

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Description

So this old obscurity has been retro bolted and though it is still moderate it doesnt seem like 5.5. I felt it was 5.7. Start just left of Men In White Suites and follow bolts over a couple bulges and finish up the weird ramp feature near the top of that route finishing at the top of the cliff above The Wimpy Gilman Ridge.

There are many moderate routes you should go out of your way for before you get to this one.

edit- At the crux bulge, climbing to the left of the bolts, using the jugs in the small corner ( can get a kneebar) before pulling back around right, will keep the grade in the lower range. Direct is fun too, but may be 5.7

Location

See description.

Protection

7 glue-in eyebolts and anchor. There are clippies, but you may want to rap rather than lower to save wear on your rope.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
FA - Tom Bowker

In the process of being retroed with permission of Mr. Bowker. The bolts are in, but still needs some cleaning (as of late Nov07)

Climbs to the left of Men in White Suites following eyebolts up a steep section to a lower angled face/left leaning corner with interesting holds. Nice climbing with easier versions of the moves that make Rumney climbing so interesting. A kneebar can be had before pulling around the arete onto the steep face. Nov 26, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.6
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.6
i will check out the route and update my description... Nov 27, 2007
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
This was actually quite enjoyable. It's retro-bolted and ends at some glue-in bolts. We started on the ledge, slightly to the left of Rainbow. The top slab leads to a fun view of the waterfall... but bring your spider web wand or have your friend lead it first. :) May 30, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
Hey Lee just noticed that this route is still posted as trad, maybe want to change it to sport now that it has been retro bolted, the anchors are two glue ins. perhaps to encourage rapping of the routes in rumney. just figured i would give you a heads up on the change Sep 7, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.6
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.6
i updated the whole description.... thanks for the reminder... Sep 8, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
I agree with lee there are a lot better moderates in the area, right around the corner there is Dirtigo and the Wimpy-Gilman Ridge and there are plenty others, but this route does serve a purpose, and that purpose is to make another moderate in the area for over crowding.

...Lee it is completely retroed now so i don't think you need any trad gear on this route... Sep 9, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.6
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.6
dang matt you catch me for everything... haha... i fixed it Sep 9, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
I've only been on it once. Do you know if there is any potential for continuing past the anchors up and around the corner to Wimpy or Mogli? Sep 10, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
I dont know if that is possible, but that would be cool I will haave to check it out next time i am out there Sep 10, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.6
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.6
I know if you lowered off of whimpy gilman the rope would run over sharp edges... Sep 11, 2009
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
F.A. Tom Bowker and Jay Golden. These guys brought me out to show off this new climb and I led it. Thought then it wasn't worth while because the original way went left of all the steep sections. Free soloed it recently and followed the bolted line. It is now worth while and the top off right of the rappel bolts was exciting. Original line had one 5.5 move on it. Now there more moves at this grade and the finish may be 5.7. There used to be a forest walk off. Its gone because of the great fire. Now smooth white rock slabs, fallen trees and some briers. Rapping down is better Jul 21, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
Sufficiently fun at the grade. Ideally, it should be led, cleaned on TR, then the TR-er should rap.

Cleaning on rappel is not terribly fun, efficient, or otherwise pleasant for your rope. I would suggest a prussik/autoblock to allow some traversing and moving to get to the middle bolts because of the roof. May 15, 2013
Adam Sadowski
Watertown, MA
 
Adam Sadowski   Watertown, MA
 
I found this climb thoroughly enjoyable for the grade with fun moves throughout. Maybe 5.7 instead of the 5.6 listed in the book.

IIRC it has rap links at the anchor now. I lowered off my draws and had my second clean and rap.

Still a bit sharp but not as dirty as people said it was. Jul 15, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This climb is beautiful. Very nice experience for the grade. Oct 16, 2013
Jay Vance
Portland, Maine
 
Jay Vance   Portland, Maine
 
Just an FYI, this route has 7 bolts May 8, 2015
Was prepped to rap down, but pleasantly surprised that there are quick clips now. Still could be worth rapping because of rope drag. Definitely have a follower clean it. Sep 28, 2016