Type: Sport
FA: Eric Mushial 1991
Page Views: 3,215 total · 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


157 Opinions

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Description

Up the hill and left from the rest of the routes in this section almost to the Venus wall, you will find a lone sport route starting from a ledge with a birch tree growing from it.

The route starts with a scramble to the ledge, belay from the ground.Climb a few moves up and right on easy ground, then up over a small bulge with pocket moves and a good rest after. Finally, tackle the upper steep overhang. This is cruxy but not too bad if you use the right holds, so climb smart.

A fun route that I rarely see people on, so it might be a good one for a busy day.

Location

Up the hill and left from the rest of the routes in this section almost to the Venus wall you will find a lone sport route starting from a ledge with a birch tree growing from it. climb it.

Protection

5 bolts to anchor. A runner for the birch tree will make you feel better as you climb to the high first bolt. Runners also help for top roping it because the anchor is back from the edge. Rapping rather than lowering from this anchor may save your rope some wear.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The original manky bolts (it was Eric's first attempt at bolting a route!) have been replaced with 5 new glue-ins. It is still not a bad idea to sling the tree before going for the first bolt, but the start has been cleaned up, making it more secure. This is a good route to rap off of, rather than lower, as the anchors are set back a bit.

Now no longer so lonesome now that Rainbow, to the left, is being retroed. Nov 26, 2007
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
The crux seemed a bit shy of 5.9 to me. Maybe it's because I am 6 feet tall? Anyways, good holds on the overhang, don't be afraid! A good lead, and a good ice breaker for the 5.9 grade. Mar 21, 2012