Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Hassig and Mark Iber?
Page Views: 289 total · 9/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Apr 27, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

A shrunken portion of the early original line, this follows a sweet right leaning corner off of the Big Easy belay ledge to a new bolted anchor. Though originally the route involved a 4th class traverse from the left side of the Iron Man Ledge to a big pine tree, you are now better off coming up the first pitch of the Big Easy or Toxic Gumbo. From the top of the corner the route followed a huge flake (now part of the trail below!) into what is now the upper slab of Bourbon Street and the White Buttress above. The absence of the flake cut the route in half, but if you have a little gear the corner is a nice short second pitch. It can also be TRed after doing Bourbon Street or Cloud Atlas (with a directional)

Location

Directly above the first pitch of The Big Easy. If you come up Toxic Gumbo, continue onto the ledge and belay there (bolted anchor)

Protection

Small rack of cams and nuts

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
  5.9-
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9-
Chime in on the grade and gear sizes if you have done this lately. I wasn't paying attention last time I did this as a quick TR after Cloud. Apr 27, 2016
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.9+
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.9+
I did it two years ago on top rope. I didn't find the line obvious so I climbed what I thought was the line. There was a part where protection would have been a problem unless I was way off route. Apr 27, 2016
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
Not 5.7, whatever it is. I Tr'd it and though 9 seemed right. May 31, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  5.9-
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9-
Can anyone confirm that there are now anchors at the top of the corner below where the flake fell off? Ward? Jul 20, 2017