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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Hassig and Mark Iber?
Page Views: 212 total, 11/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Apr 27, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A shrunken portion of the early original line, this follows a sweet right leaning corner off of the Big Easy belay ledge to a new bolted anchor. Though originally the route involved a 4th class traverse from the left side of the Iron Man Ledge to a big pine tree, you are now better off coming up the first pitch of the Big Easy or Toxic Gumbo. From the top of the corner the route followed a huge flake (now part of the trail below!) into what is now the upper slab of Bourbon Street and the White Buttress above. The absence of the flake cut the route in half, but if you have a little gear the corner is a nice short second pitch. It can also be TRed after doing Bourbon Street or Cloud Atlas (with a directional)

Location

Directly above the first pitch of The Big Easy. If you come up Toxic Gumbo, continue onto the ledge and belay there (bolted anchor)

Protection

Small rack of cams and nuts

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Can anyone confirm that there are now anchors at the top of the corner below where the flake fell off? Ward? Jul 20, 2017
Not 5.7, whatever it is. I Tr'd it and though 9 seemed right. May 31, 2016
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.9+
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.9+
I did it two years ago on top rope. I didn't find the line obvious so I climbed what I thought was the line. There was a part where protection would have been a problem unless I was way off route. Apr 27, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Chime in on the grade and gear sizes if you have done this lately. I wasn't paying attention last time I did this as a quick TR after Cloud. Apr 27, 2016