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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Chris hassig and Mark iber 1979!
Page Views: 1,083 total · 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Dec 3, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Scamper up very easy low angle rock to the base of the white wall. The crack angles left to right on quartz with a dose of lichen. It follows a crack but you do a good bit of face climbing. The climbing is good, the positioning is AMAZING! You will be looking down in to the Baker River Valley and the river it self bending its way through. The best place to view this area we love so much.

Place a nice solid piece and step up in to it. A finger size cam placed just after I started kept me happy as I made sense of the strange crack holds, slippery quartz feet and face holds hidden by lichen. After a 15 foot crux section you can stand on your feet before clipping a pin and pulling one more tricky section. This upper bulge is a little less difficult but more fun than the crux. Top out on a nice jug and decide where you'd like to anchor. There isn't a perfect spot to do so but a few trees to choose from.

With a good cleaning this would be a great climb. Not sure if it would see enough use to keep it clean unless it was bolted. That wouldn't be aweful but I think it's fine how it is.

Location

This is a 3rd above the Armed and Dangerous area That tops out on the highest point on the Main Cliff. Best way to approach the route is by climbing The Big Easy (5.7), to Bourbon Street (5.10c). The white butress will be right above you at the anchor of Bourbon. If you don't want to do a 10c pitch, you can stay on the Big Easy, taking the bolted 5.4 pitch directly up from the Sesame Street anchor, which brings you to a bolted anchor just a bit left from Bourbon Street. You may want to continue just above and belay from a tree though if there is still a good one (there was a fire)

If you wanted to, you could get to the base of the route by hiking around and scrambling around the climbers left side of the buttress and anchoring to a tree. but the approach pitches are fun and a good warm up for the main event.

Protection

Regular rack, fixed pin. Belay from trees.

Photos

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Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.9+
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.9+
As of today, this route is all brushed and ready to climb.
The lichen condition was so bad before the brushing that you can now see the line from route 25. You can see a white diagonal band in between the black lichen. Go give it a try... Aug 28, 2015
Eli
GMC3500
  5.9+
Eli   GMC3500
  5.9+
Thanks for putting work into old routes at Rumney! Sep 4, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Was the 3rd pitch of the old line Slick. I have heard that Tim Gotwells actually lead this pitch first, but he was the "new kid" so credit was overlooked. Apr 27, 2016
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
Anyone know how the decent for this one is? Is there a walk off, or do you have to wrap off a tree, maybe leave some slings? Rappel station?

Saw it from the top of Burbon St. and it looked nice, would love to give it a try... Jun 6, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Best to hike down IMO. If you head back over the dome you run right into the Overland Trail. Right will take you to the left end of Orange crush. If you go left a little instead, and cross the seasonal Venus stream, you can then scramble down along the edge of the Venus Wall, which is faster but exposed. I would only suggest the Venus way if you have already familiarized the way by scrambling up it previously Jun 6, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.10a PG13
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.10a PG13
Very fun, but bring your A-game. This is definitely a "Trad" 5.9. I'm giving this a 5.10a because it's at Rumney. Also this is probably PG13. There is a good amount of gear, but most of it is very small and in questionable rock. The first two pieces are great and should protect pulling onto the wall and the crux sequence if placed properly. You will likely not feel 100% confident about half of your placements above that. It is also quite an insecure route for the grade and I would definitely avoid this one on a hot and humid day.

With that said, this was a unique adventure in an amazing location. Definitely recommended for someone comfortable at the grade and with good gear placement skills.

There is a nice anchor with rap rings at the base of the business - I suggest continuing Bourbon Street past it's anchor and up to these.
There is really only one tree choice for an anchor at the top. Sling it above the thick branch and you will have a nice, comfortable belay. Be sure to place a piece high on the route before you top out to protect your second from a swing.

You can then rap from the same spot on that tree down to Bourbon Street's anchors, then 2 raps to the ground. Mar 31, 2018

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