Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ryan Barber and Bradley White, 6.2010
Page Views: 326 total · 3/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 8, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start from the belay at the top of 'Slack' or as we did belay higher up past the next set of anchors. Slack's second pitch goes up and right through a break in the wall. Instead climb up and left under the ceiling past a small tree (please don't cut the tree off) that is a nuisance to get past it. Under the ceiling is the crux by going left as far as possible before going up. There are alternative ways to do the ceiling harder. Protection is in excellent horizontal crack for medium cams. Above ceiling up directly left to the ramp with pin then a bolt. Three pins up right facing corner reach over corner at fake onto traverse ledge to a nice belay spot of blocks above the cliff. Rope drag was almost too much from the ceiling protection. Not much can be done about that. Making the slings way long in the crux would stop some of the drag but it would be kind of spooky at the crux. This climb goes up on quartzite. It's a fixer upper meaning add bolts and remove pins. It's way better finish for a 2nd pitch to Slack. Last moves are over a yard long flake left above the tree and it expanded enough that I stopped pulling on it. Flake wasn't problematic for us to go gingerly over it.

Location

Start at the top of 'Slack'. Climb up on 'Slack' (probably has the least rope drag) or on the outside edge (exposed) until you can move up and left to get under the ceiling.

Protection

nuts, small to medium cams, bolts and pins.

Photos

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