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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ryan Barber and Bradley White, 6.2010
Page Views: 241 total, 3/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 8, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start from the belay at the top of 'Slack' or as we did belay higher up past the next set of anchors. Slack's second pitch goes up and right through a break in the wall. Instead climb up and left under the ceiling past a small tree (please don't cut the tree off) that is a nuisance to get past it. Under the ceiling is the crux by going left as far as possible before going up. There are alternative ways to do the ceiling harder. Protection is in excellent horizontal crack for medium cams. Above ceiling up directly left to the ramp with pin then a bolt. Three pins up right facing corner reach over corner at fake onto traverse ledge to a nice belay spot of blocks above the cliff. Rope drag was almost too much from the ceiling protection. Not much can be done about that. Making the slings way long in the crux would stop some of the drag but it would be kind of spooky at the crux. This climb goes up on quartzite. It's a fixer upper meaning add bolts and remove pins. It's way better finish for a 2nd pitch to Slack. Last moves are over a yard long flake left above the tree and it expanded enough that I stopped pulling on it. Flake wasn't problematic for us to go gingerly over it.

Location

Start at the top of 'Slack'. Climb up on 'Slack' (probably has the least rope drag) or on the outside edge (exposed) until you can move up and left to get under the ceiling.

Protection

nuts, small to medium cams, bolts and pins.

Photos

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