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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 10/05
Page Views: 5,914 total, 46/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is another retrobolted route that is now seeing traffic. Originally done on sketchy gear, it wasn't even in the guidebook. Though not as classic as its neighbor to the left (Armed and Dangerous 5.10b), it is well worth doing and though it's a little squeezed in (as the name suggests) it will thin the crowds at this popular spot.

Climb the line of weakness to the right of Armed and Dangerous, following Metamorphosis (5.8+), then heading straight up the steep wall above to the old anchors of Armed and Dangerous. Big moves on good holds for the most part and nice clean falls.

Location

Just right of Armed and Dangerous 5.10b.

Protection

  • bolts to anchor.

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
S. Neoh  
  5.10c/d
^^^ After said match (which I have to do as well), I hop my right foot up to a good foothold then go to the next good hold with my right hand. Quite a bit of body tension required, however. Don't despair, many taller folks have trouble with this sequence too. Sep 22, 2017
feifei
 
feifei  
 
For a 5'4 person, the match at the crux was pretty hard. Going after the next hold after matching wasn't easy either with minimal feet. Sep 22, 2017
Nick Brennan
Concord, NH
  5.10b/c
Nick Brennan   Concord, NH
  5.10b/c
I'm a little under 5'8" and didn't find this appreciably harder than A&D. Seems like a really good 10+ for a 5.9+/10a leader. Jun 22, 2017
Dom R
Estes Park, Colorado
Dom R   Estes Park, Colorado
If you're in the area it's a great addition to your list of things to do, really fun pumpy jug hauling on a face that, once you look at it while lowering, you will realize is much steeper than you thought. I don't remember gaining the second bolt to be a "burl fest" as some have said, I found the movement was great just not necessarily the best holds maybe. Im also 5'11" so that could be a factor. Sep 14, 2014
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
 
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
 
I linked the start of A&D to this last week for a very enjoyable climb. The rope is in a bit of an awkward spot as you're pulling the crux but so long as you're smart about where your legs are it's not a problem. Definitely a 5.10+ move getting to that second bolt on the headwall either way. And one of the quick links on the anchor is indeed failing the Walt Shipley biner test. Aug 3, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
One of the quick clips at the top is broken. The gate on the biner has lost its spring action. Jul 28, 2014
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
That's the plan for next time! Thanks! Oct 12, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
S. Neoh  
  5.10c/d
It should be possible to start off A&D then link into Clusterphobia, hitting the crux of both enroute. But use your best judgement and rope management. Oct 11, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Finally got on this recently and really enjoyed it. It's a shame the 1st half of the route isn't more memorable like the first half of A+D or else the entire climb would be a classic, IMO. Oct 11, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
S. Neoh  
  5.10c/d
For most people, significantly harder. For me (a shortie), the crux of this route requires a good deal of core strength and precise footwork. Apr 22, 2013
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
How does the steep part of this compare to, say, Bullwinkle goes Ballistic? Apr 22, 2013
Michael Buchanan
  5.10d
Michael Buchanan  
  5.10d
If you're tall, the burl move will be chill. Its pretty much a 10a jug haul after that. Super fun. Jun 18, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
FA Mark Sprague 10/05 Jan 29, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11a
I think this is the best route on the wall. It's much better than Armed and Dangerous, IMO. It also felt hard for 5.10d. The move at the start of the steep part requires 5.11 burl. Nov 12, 2009
Ladd

  5.10d
Ladd    
  5.10d
I took a bit of an unexpected whipper on this climb Saturday...
A foothold about the size of Nalgene exploded off the cliff while I was using it to pull the upper lip, I don't think it changes the climb at all as it was off right a bit an into the rotten rock, apparently. Nov 11, 2007
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Not a retro job, to my knowledge, though it most likely was top roped on since A&D was put in, as it runs directly to the old anchors.

Somewhat chossy, but fun steep flakes and pockets. ..a bit height dependent Aug 15, 2007