Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 4,371 total · 31/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Aug 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


204 Opinions

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Description

Left of Scene of the Crime and Juicy Fingers there is a very inviting finger crack on a blank face. Climb a few moves in the crack (2 bolts) and mantel onto an easy rest ledge, then climb a blunt arete past three more well placed bolts until it is easy to scramble to the anchors at the top. It seems like the anchors are placed 3 or 4 feet higher than necessary, however this is to access a second pitch or the route Panama Hat (5.9 but I have not been on it and will not try to give any details about it.) This is a fun route to warm up, end the day, or tick another 5.9 when you are in the area.

Location

Left of and perpendicular to Scene of the Crime

Protection

7 bolts, the first one may be reached from the ground (I'm only 5'10")
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
hey brian, i looked on RC.com cause they have kept pretty well up to date on the new routes and retros at rumney... that site has juicy fingers still protected by trad gear and a pin but they do list a new bolted route to the left, The Green Mile 5.9, which would make sense if you thought it wasnt quite 5.10a... what we need is photos and maps, they are oh so helpful... hope this helps... peace out... Aug 18, 2007
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
  5.9
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
  5.9
Sorry about the mix up of route names, I've gotten some more info on the route and I will try to get a decent picture the next time I am out. Aug 19, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I think its 6 bolts to anchors rather than 5... May 2, 2009
It is possible to lead this with gear, but I would only recommend it if you are comfortable with a long fall potential. I was able to get a nice red c4 in the crack just after the large ledge. The gear is good but there isn't a lot of it. Aug 29, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
Does anyone have any info on the upper pitches above this route? Panama Hat or if there are any others? It looks like a cool section of rock. Sep 24, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Yes, Panama Hat goes at around 5.9 and is the left climb off the ledge. Beta: once you reach the roof traverse pretty far left before going up then angling back right and up to the anchors. The best approach to PH is up The Anchovy Caper and on to the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. With a 70 m rope and good use of slings you can do this and lower as 1 long pitch.

The next route to the right is Chris Smith's route Flying Squirrel. It goes up at the big corner and out rt onto the arete, ending at the anchors of Panama Hat. I think he said it was an easy or mid 11. Again, approach from Anchovy, or perhaps The Green Mile.

The next one over right is Tim Kemple Sr's fun 11c that goes through a couple roofs, best approached from Scene of the Crime. Just continue up onto the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. Give your self some slack when belaying here so you can move around and see the climber.
Edit: Panama Hat ended up going into the new book as Mister Meaner, just to clear up any confusion Sep 28, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
Thanks Mark i will have to check those routes out and post what I can. I will def get on Panama Hat soon.

P.S. are these all sport? Sep 28, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Yup..all bolt protected. Sep 28, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks for the info mark... after that long entry whay not just post the climbs... Sep 28, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Here's a video of Jakob making quick work of The Green Mile. Make sure to watch in 720p (Mountain Project strips it from the embedded video link)
youtube.com/watch?v=tsgguhY… Oct 11, 2010
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
The grade of 5.9 can be very fickle at Rumney... I have climbed ones that feel like 5.8, and I have climbed ones that feel like 5.10c. This one is certainly much closer to 5.9 than a lot of other Rumney 9's. When I was trying to break in to 9's at Rumney I found it very difficult. This climb (and Yoda as well) is an excellent first 5.9 lead. That said, I really enjoyed this climb, and I am going to certainly recommend it. The face moves are really cool and it's a different kind of slab climb than the Meadows, or even the slab sections of other climbs around this one. However, I'm not sure how someone shorter than me can reach the first bolt from the ground. I am just shy of 6 feet tall and I was about a foot short of reaching the bolt. May 29, 2012
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
worth doing if it is dry Aug 7, 2012
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Fun route... challenging when wet. I found myself skipping the first bolt by climbing up right of it and clipping the second but if this climb is pushing it for you then maybe stick clip. Or maybe this bolt is easy to reach when it's dry. Sep 6, 2013
BenjiDa  
Careful! Left bolt at anchor is loose. Oct 6, 2013
Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
I don't know which bolt can be reached from the ground (maybe that was the case in the past?), I didn't see it. You can clearly see the first bolt in one of the pictures, it is rather high and I would strongly recommend that it is stick clipped as I saw a very nasty fall that the guy from a different party took after we finished this route. They decided to go with a cam which ripped off when he fell and while everything seems to have ended well (at least no obvious damage), the fall was REALLY scary. He fell on his back onto the boulder below the route, then bounced and hit the ground. Jun 20, 2016
Graham O.  
 
A rad climb! Does anyone know if it's possible to do this thing on gear?? Aug 5, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I think I did it on gear but that doesn't mean its a good idea ;) Aug 5, 2016
Graham O.  
 
Ha ha nice what did you use for the second half of it?! Aug 8, 2016