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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Chris Hassig 1980
Page Views: 835 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 8, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Like a little piece of Cannon stuck to Rumney.
Unfortunately the Cannon style trad climbing is over quickly but at least it leads back to classic Rumney schist.

Typically listed an "R" rated climb but since the route finishes the same way as Millennium Falcon the scary climbing is now all bolted. I skipped the bolts and thought that in that style it deserved the "R".

Start on the ledge atop the first pitch of The Big Easy 5.7. Climb up a crack from the big pine tree on the right side of the ledge. Move up and right careful not to dislodge any loose blocks. Mantel on to the smooth slab of Millennium Falcon 5.10c. From here you can clip Millennium's bolts to the anchor. lower down to the Millennium ledge and have your partner follow and clean.

Location

From the right side of the Big Easy ledge to the anchors of Millennium Falcon.

Protection

Regular rack.

Photos

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Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This is a fun little pitch that I suggest doing fully on gear until you meet up with Millenium Falcon, and only on a day where you can be sure there won't be someone on Millenium Falcon when you get over there. You will be SOL if there is.

With the addition of more routes above the Big Easy ledge last Fall, this route has in effect become almost fully bolted, and you really only need one #1 or #2 cam to keep it G rated. Bring lots of alpine draws. May 14, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Overall it is really safe and not too bad to protect, I was glad to clip the bolts on millennium though. Nov 9, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
all the loose stuff didnt seem that epic... i was pounding on everything to make sure it was solid and felt secure enough... some TV sized blocks were loose but wouldn't come down without some work... May 9, 2013
S. Neoh  
In its current form, is there a move where you have three or four points of contact on a BIG detached block? This climb was scary before MF was cleaned and bolted. May 8, 2013