Type: Trad
FA: Chris Hassig 1980
Page Views: 1,005 total · 14/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 8, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Like a little piece of Cannon stuck to Rumney.
Unfortunately the Cannon style trad climbing is over quickly but at least it leads back to classic Rumney schist.

Typically listed an "R" rated climb but since the route finishes the same way as Millennium Falcon the scary climbing is now all bolted. I skipped the bolts and thought that in that style it deserved the "R".

Start on the ledge atop the first pitch of The Big Easy 5.7. Climb up a crack from the big pine tree on the right side of the ledge. Move up and right careful not to dislodge any loose blocks. Mantel on to the smooth slab of Millennium Falcon 5.10c. From here you can clip Millennium's bolts to the anchor. lower down to the Millennium ledge and have your partner follow and clean.

Location

From the right side of the Big Easy ledge to the anchors of Millennium Falcon.

Protection

Regular rack.

Photos

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S. Neoh  
In its current form, is there a move where you have three or four points of contact on a BIG detached block? This climb was scary before MF was cleaned and bolted. May 8, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.9
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.9
all the loose stuff didnt seem that epic... i was pounding on everything to make sure it was solid and felt secure enough... some TV sized blocks were loose but wouldn't come down without some work... May 9, 2013
Overall it is really safe and not too bad to protect, I was glad to clip the bolts on millennium though. Nov 9, 2015
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This is a fun little pitch that I suggest doing fully on gear until you meet up with Millenium Falcon, and only on a day where you can be sure there won't be someone on Millenium Falcon when you get over there. You will be SOL if there is.

With the addition of more routes above the Big Easy ledge last Fall, this route has in effect become almost fully bolted, and you really only need one #1 or #2 cam to keep it G rated. Bring lots of alpine draws. May 14, 2017