Avg: 3.1 from 276 votes
|FA:||Glen Cilley 1994|
|Page Views:||6,743 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on May 10, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Start at the birch tree on the ledge about 25 feet up, to the right of Metamorphosis (5.8+). Climb the cracks (used to be protected with gear) to a stance at the base of a short steep corner where you can carefully clip a bolt and launch into a few hard moves that get you to a ledge rest. Continue up over another steep part with a cool mantel move. The final section surprised and scared me the first time I did it, 'cause I was in Rumney mode and all of the sudden I was looking at thin awkward moves on to a slab with few actual holds. Once I got in to Whitehorse mode, I was cool and did the few moves to the chains. you can make the final slab easier by stepping to the left then back right to clip your last bolt.
If the crowds are swarming around the other 10s in the area this route is typically still lonely, so give it some loving when you get the chance.