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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Glen Cilley 1994
Page Views: 3,958 total, 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A really cool climb that didn't see much traffic until it was fully bolted, and it still doesn't. A long route with a few cruxes that test you in different ways that will keep you on your toes.

Start at the birch tree on the ledge about 25 feet up, to the right of Metamorphosis (5.8+). Climb the cracks (used to be protected with gear) to a stance at the base of a short steep corner where you can carefully clip a bolt and launch into a few hard moves that get you to a ledge rest. Continue up over another steep part with a cool mantel move. The final section surprised and scared me the first time I did it, 'cause I was in Rumney mode and all of the sudden I was looking at thin awkward moves on to a slab with few actual holds. Once I got in to Whitehorse mode, I was cool and did the few moves to the chains. you can make the final slab easier by stepping to the left then back right to clip your last bolt.
If the crowds are swarming around the other 10s in the area this route is typically still lonely, so give it some loving when you get the chance.

Location

Start at the birch tree on the ledge about 15 feet up, to the right of Metamorphosis (5.8+).

Protection

10 bolts to chains.
60M rope needed to lower.

Photos

S. Neoh
5.10c
S. Neoh  
5.10c
I think my fav handhold disappeared!
Don't you just hate that??
Thanks for the update, Tim. I will keep this in mid when I get on this route again before the end of this season. Aug 21, 2017
I just did this again the other day, and it seemed that things had changed near the top. There is a place where you traverse in under a roof about 2/3 height, then clip a bolt in the roof. I think my fav handhold disappeared!
I think this part is harder now, but still within grade.

Always fun, and rarely crowded. Aug 20, 2017
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
Bozeman, Montana
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow   Bozeman, Montana
The bolt before pulling up onto the slabby section could use a long draw on it. Not because of rope drag, but because a fall could force the gate of the rope-side carabiner open, which happened to me today when I tried to punch straight up the bolt line rather than movie left and then right.

Fun route with great views. Aug 23, 2016
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10b
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10b
A big "thank you" to the person who put in a new anchor several feet beneath the old one. A 60 meter rope will now cover the route just fine. Sep 28, 2015
Zac St. Jules
New Hampshire
  5.10c
Zac St. Jules   New Hampshire
  5.10c
My 60m had a good several feet of length left after lowering my partner. Interesting. May 4, 2015
S. Neoh
5.10c
S. Neoh  
5.10c
Yeah, this is an under appreciated route. It is very good.
With a 60m rope, you can belay and lower the leader all the way down from the trail if you are careful. Always knot the end of the rope! Sep 8, 2013
J Meagher
  5.10c/d
J Meagher  
  5.10c/d
Amazing climb, one of my favorites at rumney! An awesome low bouldery crux and a harder slab crux just below the anchors makes for an amazing climb. Great rock, awesome moves and a beautiful view. The ledge that you belay from is also an excellent place to practice placing trad gear Sep 8, 2013
Eric N
Jamaica Plain, MA
Eric N   Jamaica Plain, MA
KNOT YOUR ROPE! I'd have fallen a few feet without it today. That said, great climb. Go straight up second crux, cause that's why it's a great climb. A stiff move though. Nov 19, 2012
Kevin D.
Palo Alto, CA
 
Kevin D.   Palo Alto, CA
 
An excellent route with, I think, more substance than other 10s I've done on this part of the cliff. I'm surprised that it still sees as little attention as it does; ours was the only ascent on a very crowded day. Give it a try--you won't be disappointed! Jun 11, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The shortest walk down from the top of the white buttress would probably be to head back to the trail and head left. Just after where it crosses the top of the Venus stream, carefully scramble down the exposed western edge of the Venus wall (trending to the right) It is a good idea to have come up it first, so you know what you are getting into, as route finding is harder looking down) Jun 1, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10b
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10b
Thanks Jeff! Jun 1, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Matt, you were probably looking at the 2nd/3rd pitch of The Big Easy. Even more to your right is Bourbon Street, which has a definite crux, followed by a relatively long low angle walk to anchors. From either of those two pitches the White Buttress can be seen above, however, it's currently an unbolted trad pitch. A walk off from the top would be adventurous (by normal Rumney standards) and might lead you over towards the top of Orange Crush or back around the FAR left side of Venus. Much easier to make a few single rope rappels to the base of A&D. Be careful not to throw your rope onto the line of people climbing the 1st pitch of The Big Easy! :D Jun 1, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10b
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10b
So... I recall seeing a second pitch to this, I think. Does this second pitch go to the top? And is it fully bolted? I would love to climb to the top of main cliff , and would like it even more if I could walk off instead of repel down. Jun 1, 2012
S. Neoh
5.10c
S. Neoh  
5.10c
Nice work, Matt. It is time to clean up on No Money Down, Romancing The Stone, Clusterphobia, and Waimea. I finished my day yesterday on Idiot's Deluxe (next to ladder for Holderness Arete). The last half of the climb is very good. I think you will find it challenging and enjoyable. May 28, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10b
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10b
Finally got on this one. I wasn't sure as ".10c" is still intimidating to me, but I was glad I did. It felt, to me, a bit soft for a .10c, but I am a gym climber with strong hands and bad footwork, so maybe it's just me.

Edit to add: This route is awesome! Multiple, good, no-hands rests, yet the route still seems to flow and is not broken up by these rests. Straightforward fun! A must for any gym rat wanting a good 10c to try! May 28, 2012
S. Neoh
5.10c
S. Neoh  
5.10c
For me the first time on this route since 1994! Nice route. Low crux felt harder today than I remembered while upper slab crux felt easier because I went left and then back right. Nice long route if one starts from the trail with a 70m but rope drag is burly! 2.5 stars. Aug 14, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
With looming rain clouds, we arrived to a packed A&D this morning. Sure enough... lines on every route but this and toxic gumbo. This route was GREAT! Jul 25, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
This route is quite long and fun. However, I would say many of the words used to describe it here could be used even more appropriately to describe Millennium Falcon... multiple cruxes, adventurous, beautiful view, best 10c at Rumney. Both great climbs! Mar 1, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10c
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10c
This route is the definition of classy, multiple cruxes, run outs, and a beautiful view, what could be better :) Mar 20, 2009
I did this route not long ago...was thinking I had never done it before. Only when I lowered off and pulled the rope did I realize that I had climbed it four years before. I absolutely loved it both times; it's long and full-value - runout on easy ground and adventurous the whole way! It's got to be my favorite 10c at Rumney. Oct 18, 2008
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Worthy of more ascents. Airy and long for a sport route. A 70m rope is nice if belaying from the ground, though a 60 will just get you down. Knot the rope! If you approach the last bolt from the left, you will find the going much easier. Aug 15, 2007