Type: Sport
FA: Glen Cilley 1994
Page Views: 5,967 total · 37/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A really cool climb that didn't see much traffic until it was fully bolted, and it still doesn't. A long route with a few cruxes that test you in different ways that will keep you on your toes.

Start at the birch tree on the ledge about 25 feet up, to the right of Metamorphosis (5.8+). Climb the cracks (used to be protected with gear) to a stance at the base of a short steep corner where you can carefully clip a bolt and launch into a few hard moves that get you to a ledge rest. Continue up over another steep part with a cool mantel move. The final section surprised and scared me the first time I did it, 'cause I was in Rumney mode and all of the sudden I was looking at thin awkward moves on to a slab with few actual holds. Once I got in to Whitehorse mode, I was cool and did the few moves to the chains. you can make the final slab easier by stepping to the left then back right to clip your last bolt.
If the crowds are swarming around the other 10s in the area this route is typically still lonely, so give it some loving when you get the chance.

Location

Start at the birch tree on the ledge about 15 feet up, to the right of Metamorphosis (5.8+).

Protection

10 bolts to chains.
60M rope needed to lower.

Photos