Type: Sport
FA: Tim Kemple Sr. 11/96
Page Views: 1,748 total · 17/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 15, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

If you havent had enough steep burly 5.11 climbing after doing Cerial Killer (5.11c) continue to the ledge and do this powerful second pitch. Interesting tricky moves up STEEP bulges on great rock.

From the anchor on the ledge above Cerial Killer step left and climb the bulges trending left passing a fixed draw to an anchor just short of the top of the cliff.

After pulling the first bulge I was drained and hoping that the next bulge was a lot easier. It wasn't, you can plan on keeping your gameface on until the end.

Location

Starting from the anchor on the ledge above Cerial Killer (5.11c) climbing up and left. You can also get to the start by climbing Scene of the Climb and continuing one more bolt up to the ledge.

Protection

6 bolts to anchor.
One of the anchor bolts was twisted sideways and put crazy kinks in my rope. Could use a quick link extension I think.

Photos

S. Neoh  
Lee, how timely of a write-up! Just when I am tired of the A&D Wall (sorry your trad 5.8 next to Anchovy is not reason enough for another visit), you spring this route on me. Thanks.
Is the fixed draw in good condition? If you think it should be replaced, let me know the length of sling and I will put a replacement on. And I will also bring two more q-links for the anchors (if I make it there, that is).
Just in case my partners do not wish to follow Cereal Killer, do you know if I can get to this climb from the anchors of Scene of A Climb?
Thanks again,
Soon Sep 15, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Soon, yes you can get there from Scene. I put a bolt above its anchors for protecting this way. The fixed sling was a 2 footer, bright red last time I saw it. It would be nicer to have one that blends in with the tan rock better.

Some beta: Move around some. The most direct way is not the easiest. Sep 16, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11b
Cool thanks for being willing to fix up the gear a little... i think 2 quick links on each anchor would be best if you plan to do it...

I got to the anchor at the ledge from Armed and Dangerous i just broke left before the roof... so you have a few options :) Sep 16, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.11a/b
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.11a/b
cool route, we did this and the other 2 climbs to the left yesterday. Apr 11, 2011
Harrison Harb
Portland
  5.11-
Harrison Harb   Portland
  5.11-
the three routes up in this little spot are all great! Aug 30, 2013
Derek Jf
Northeast
 
Derek Jf   Northeast
 
Very good climbing - do this route. Sep 7, 2015
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
Fun climb, knowing where to grab above those bulges helps a lot...

Anybody know what the chain and single rap ring are for, on the 4th(maybe?) bolt? Also, I didn't see a fixed draw when I was on it recently.. Jul 10, 2017
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Sounds like somebody may have used it as a more permanent solution to the fixed sling. Jul 10, 2017