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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Tim Kemple Sr. 11/96
Page Views: 1,518 total, 17/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 15, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

If you havent had enough steep burly 5.11 climbing after doing Cerial Killer (5.11c) continue to the ledge and do this powerful second pitch. Interesting tricky moves up STEEP bulges on great rock.

From the anchor on the ledge above Cerial Killer step left and climb the bulges trending left passing a fixed draw to an anchor just short of the top of the cliff.

After pulling the first bulge I was drained and hoping that the next bulge was a lot easier. It wasn't, you can plan on keeping your gameface on until the end.

Location

Starting from the anchor on the ledge above Cerial Killer (5.11c) climbing up and left. You can also get to the start by climbing Scene of the Climb and continuing one more bolt up to the ledge.

Protection

6 bolts to anchor.
One of the anchor bolts was twisted sideways and put crazy kinks in my rope. Could use a quick link extension I think.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Sounds like somebody may have used it as a more permanent solution to the fixed sling. Jul 10, 2017
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
Fun climb, knowing where to grab above those bulges helps a lot...

Anybody know what the chain and single rap ring are for, on the 4th(maybe?) bolt? Also, I didn't see a fixed draw when I was on it recently.. Jul 10, 2017
Derek Jf
Northeast
 
Derek Jf   Northeast
 
Very good climbing - do this route. Sep 7, 2015
Brunt Tornton
NH
  5.11-
Brunt Tornton   NH
  5.11-
the three routes up in this little spot are all great! Aug 30, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.11a/b
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.11a/b
cool route, we did this and the other 2 climbs to the left yesterday. Apr 11, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Cool thanks for being willing to fix up the gear a little... i think 2 quick links on each anchor would be best if you plan to do it...

I got to the anchor at the ledge from Armed and Dangerous i just broke left before the roof... so you have a few options :) Sep 16, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Soon, yes you can get there from Scene. I put a bolt above its anchors for protecting this way. The fixed sling was a 2 footer, bright red last time I saw it. It would be nicer to have one that blends in with the tan rock better.

Some beta: Move around some. The most direct way is not the easiest. Sep 16, 2010
S. Neoh  
Lee, how timely of a write-up! Just when I am tired of the A&D Wall (sorry your trad 5.8 next to Anchovy is not reason enough for another visit), you spring this route on me. Thanks.
Is the fixed draw in good condition? If you think it should be replaced, let me know the length of sling and I will put a replacement on. And I will also bring two more q-links for the anchors (if I make it there, that is).
Just in case my partners do not wish to follow Cereal Killer, do you know if I can get to this climb from the anchors of Scene of A Climb?
Thanks again,
Soon Sep 15, 2010