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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 2/05
Page Views: 4,182 total · 34/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 24, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A fun addition to this section that was better than i thought it would be.

Start from the ledge near the big tree and work the rope out so it runs straight. I just throw the rope around the tree so the belayer can stand under the start of the route.
Anyway, climb the steep corner above, working the feet and making a tough move out left to a good stance. Move up and right and tackle a slight bulge to a slab with little crimps (getting on to the slab felt like the crux). Enjoy a nice ledge then finish one more vertical section on jugs and technical stuff to the anchor.

Location

On the right side of the A and D wall. Start on a dirt ledge near a large tree trunk.

Protection

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. A longer draw here and there and maybe a shoulder sling at the transition from the slab into the final steep keeps the rope running well.

Photos

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
This is my new favorite 5.8 at Rumney. Fun jug hauling to start, then pulling the bulge and over the slab with awesome crimps, and then fun juggy flakes to the chains. On top of that there's no chalk on the route! which makes it that much more fun...now no one climb it so we can keep it that way ;) Apr 5, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
Is this the route to the right of The Big Easy? looks and sounds fun Apr 5, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
I believe so, scramble up to the same ledge and then walk over right to the bolt line Apr 6, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
Ok cool thanks man Apr 6, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
FA Mark Sprague 2/05 Jan 29, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Is it possible to get to the ledge directly below Millennium Falcon from here? Does this route go just left of that ledge? May 27, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yup that works fine, just a little vegitated traverse to the base of millennium... i dont think there is a bolted belay there though... you could belay from a tree if not... May 27, 2010
kenr
  5.8
kenr  
  5.8
In addition to the fun moves, some thoughtful navigation in a couple of places.
I had some rope drag in the upper section (I guess due to the transition from the lower overhang to gentler section immediatly above) -- not sure what to do about it, anyway the climbing was easy enough so it didn't get in my way. Oct 17, 2012
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
As of 3/26/13, the left fixed clip on this route is broken. When I found it it was stuck permanently in the open position and has a weird string hanging from it. Not sure what this was about. Just giving the heads up. Mar 27, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Matt, you should submit an entry here as well: climbrumney.com/support-us/… Mar 27, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Thanks, Jeff. Now I know for the future! Mar 27, 2013
J Meagher
  5.8
J Meagher  
  5.8
Super fun jug-hauling and stemming up the corner and a great slab above. One of my favorite 5.8's on main cliff Nov 13, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Really nice, steep climb. Nothing sketchy, not too hard for the grade. Sep 25, 2014
Steve Marshall
Concord NH
Steve Marshall   Concord NH
I climbed this last night on 11/9/14 - there is a right-facing flake jug in the top 3rd of the climb right after the under-cling block. It felt fine on my way up but cleaning on the way down I grabbed the flake and it pulled loose. Couldnt dislodge it completely but definitely not solid any more. No chalk to mark it with an X so watch out!

There's another big hold in a similar spot so shouldn't be an issue Nov 10, 2014

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