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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Bowker 1990
Page Views: 5,119 total, 39/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 17, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A very enjoyable climb and a good first climb of the grade for those breaking in to 5.10s. There are two cruxes, the first steep and a little pumpy the next techy and footworky.

Starting on the left end of the cave climb up directly on steep rock or step off a boulder to reach good holds. A few of the key holds on the first part are a bit hidden, so if you feel like it's too hard for the grade you might be right. Continue up and right to a good rest stance, then around the corner and left on to balancy moves (past a loose hold that just won't come all the way out (yet) and on to the Quick clips.

Enjoy.

Location

On the left side of the cave, the next route left of Cereal Killer (5.11c).

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips.
Stick clip the first bolt, or at least get a good spot to keep the back of your head off the sharp boulder, as the landing is bad and the moves a little awkward. Be aware the jug for clipping the second bolt is starting to creak also.
Really fun! Good intro to the grade, as said above. It's a smooth and consistent climb, with a variety of movement. The orange dihedral section at the top is so different than the bottom! Jul 8, 2017
Brunt Tornton   NH
 
it seems someone busted that block off near the top... I think that section, which used to be a little awkward, is a bit easier and less heady now Oct 10, 2014
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Better than Armed and Dangerous Jun 15, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.10a/b
That hold has been loose for at least 18 years, if not longer. That said, I stick clip the 1st bolt these days; just not worth risking an ankle injury over a route I have done many times. Nov 15, 2011
Brunt Tornton   NH
 
good to know! Nov 15, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
It has been tested with a bar and is very well chocked in. I kind of like it. It freaks people out, but is safe. Keeps them on their toes. Nov 14, 2011
Brunt Tornton   NH
 
this climb would be better if someone could get that lose hold off...it seems pretty well stuck but still sketchy Nov 14, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Crime and Punishment 11b. It is a nice climb that weaves up through the roofs. Apr 20, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a/b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a/b
This route has a really fun lower section but the top is a little weird.

I would certainly stick clip the first bolt, I did not and it was a little weird.

What is the route the continues from the anchors of this climb? Apr 19, 2010
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
The hold Lee is talking about is kind of hidden off to the left and for me it makes the difference between a really fun, somehwat casual climb and a pretty big, but still exciting slap in the face. Jan 11, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i always felt that not using the holds to the left messed up the flow of the route and made the moves feel forced and awkward... i never did this variation on purpose but messed it up the first time i climbed it...

i tend to leave the eliminates for the gym... but each to there own... Aug 30, 2007
Ladd

  5.10b
Ladd    
  5.10b
I've always done this route without the holds in the crack out to the left, I always felt like I was doing 11- moves with compression moves.

It is a cool variation to not use the jugs out left. Aug 30, 2007