Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 2,570 total · 24/month
Shared By: Jake D. on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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62 Opinions

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Description

Climb Anchovy Caper and continue up to a 2 bolt anchor on the grassy belay ledge above. Bring up your 2nd and belay from here. Start just right of the belay anchors up to a right facing corner. Traverse left under the roof and a little further to find an easy way over , then back right. (more direct is quite a bit harder) Finish up the slab to the anchors.

Mark Sprague wrote: "Yes, Panama Hat* goes at around 5.9 and is the left climb off the ledge. Beta: once you reach the roof, traverse pretty far left before going up then angling back right and up to the anchors. The best approach to PH is up The Anchovy Caper and on to the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. With a 70 m rope and good use of slings you can do this and lower as 1 long pitch."

*Panama Hat renamed Mister Meaner (then back to Panama Hat)

Location

Left most route on ledge above Anchovy caper.

Protection

7 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

jcullem  
Did this route for the first time recently. A really nice moderate addition to the collection of moderate routes at this crag. It makes a nice 2-pitch route (via one of the lower pitch options) and deserves to see more traffic. Rock quality is good, but watch for some loose stuff here and there. Exposed bulgy crux half-way up, then a more exposed traverse left under the roof. Have fun! May 29, 2010
S. Neoh
5.10a
S. Neoh  
5.10a
Agreed. Nice moves gets one to high up on the cliff.
More or less straight over the roof makes a 5.10/10+ variation; happened upon it by accident before we figured out the path of least resistance is to traverse left under the roof. :)

-SNeoh May 29, 2010
CLamb  
A really nice route, but pretty clearly in the 10a range not 5.9.

-cwl Jul 4, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
I agree Sneoh, I was just thinking about this route for some reason and I also powered out the right side/center of the roof and clipped after (no long sling) and thought it a little tough and heady. May 30, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10a
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10a
This climb made me wish for smaller fingers around the crux. Sep 15, 2012
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
This is one of my favorites in the area and definitely worth the trip up to the ledge. Green Mile, Anchovy Caper, Fish Corner, and Bonnie and Clyde (this one I am not certain about..) will all get you up there so take your pick. Mar 14, 2013
Harrison Harb
Portland
  5.9
Harrison Harb   Portland
  5.9
^don't think B&C goes quite that far up Nov 22, 2013
teresamatrix
Los Angeles, CA
teresamatrix   Los Angeles, CA
Can one link Anchovy Caper and Mister Meaner and get back down with a 70 m rope? Aug 7, 2014
M Sprague
New England
5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
5.9+
Yes, just watch the rope end. See the note in the route description. Aug 7, 2014
Harrison Harb
Portland
  5.9
Harrison Harb   Portland
  5.9
what's the story behind the name change? Panama Hat is a sweet name Oct 10, 2014
M Sprague
New England
5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
5.9+
I embarrassingly tend to forget people's names or sometimes ones I give to routes. I think Ward needed a name quickly for his guide, I had a brain fart and that was all I could come up with on the spot. It was a time when we were climbing out at Owls where we were deliberately making confusing names by making them very similar to others. There is another Rumney route named Misdemeanor. I like Panama Hat better too. Just to confuse everybody, I'll change it back, haha. Oct 10, 2014
Harrison Harb
Portland
  5.9
Harrison Harb   Portland
  5.9
haha nice! Oct 12, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
While you are changing names how about remembering the "good name" for this little gem mountainproject.com/v/i-had… Oct 12, 2014
M Sprague
New England
5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
5.9+
That was always the original name, Lee. I was making fun of myself and it has a double meaning. Oct 15, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
well aren't you clever :P haha
as you know i just like that route a little too much and i long for it to have an epic name... Oct 17, 2014