Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Keith Becansoll 2011
Page Views: 3,200 total · 39/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


145 Opinions

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Description

This comes with a batch of new routes that have been heavily cleaned over many months on the right side of the A+D wall. This one is just to the left of Ali Babbler.

Climb a blocky start to a slab crux on the upper wall.

This will be a good way to get to the Millennium Falcon ledge once it cleans up a bit.

Location

Starts from a big tree next to the trail to Ali Babbler from A+D. Climbs 15 feet left of Ali Babbler.

Protection

bolts to anchors.

Photos

ed esmond
Paris, VT
ed esmond   Paris, VT
for some reason, i thought it was called the "Milquetoast Falcon." Apr 9, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.9
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.9
Good climb to practice your foot work. May 29, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.8
S. Neoh  
  5.8
More fun than I had thought. Solid 2-stars.
The short section between the top of this climb and the low/start anchors for Millennium Falcon is loose and dirty. I knocked off a bunch of stuff rapping off the start anchors of Millennium Falcon at the end of the day when no one was climbing on this newly opened section of cliff.
Jun 16, 2012
Ming
  5.9-
Ming  
  5.9-
Tricky feet - harder than the 5.8 slabs at the Meadows I think. Jun 21, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Really fun slab, would be better than Green Mile if it had cooler features/aesthetics. Great movement through the upper wall though. Traffic is what it needs most! Jul 17, 2012
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.8+
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.8+
I thought this was a very fun route. Climbs a lot like a Gunks' route. Mar 17, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.8-
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.8-
Fun climb. Great for kids as it gets them halfway up with little effort and my girls seem to do well on small edges / slab.

Unlike the rest of the routes at A&D the clipping stance for the anchors isn't as casual. Sydney had trouble finding a way to stand and pull slack for the quick clips. Mar 24, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
This is a really fun climb. Highly recommended. Mar 27, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Better than I expected. It is a nice little climb. A grinder needs to be found for some of the extra bolts though. Apr 18, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.8
S. Neoh  
  5.8
They are not so bad, Mark; they are dark grey glue-ins and not bright SS hangers. A good confidence building route for those just starting out. You still remember those days, Mark? Apr 18, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I was thinking of the extra couple that are out of line with the others. I think he put them in then decided they should be to the side more, so put new ones in, but didn't have a way to remove the first. On the two routes going out the roofs to the left, IMO, the lower bolts up the 5.1 starts were unneeded and only added to the gridbolt effect. Apr 18, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Keith was able to remove one of the extra bolts this weekend. Apr 22, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Great route!

The first half is easy, yet enjoyable. Then the real business begins. Up top is some gnarly, crimpy, very challenging face climbing, with tricky positions to get clipped in. It was AWESOME for a 5.8. The challenges are unique. Getting to the last bolt before the anchor was a leftward move, very tough... then getting into the anchor was tough as well.

A truly exhilerating sport climb, one of my favorite leads at Rumney so far. Sep 17, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
Not a bad climb, just nothing overall memorable about it. Still a worth addition. Sep 26, 2014
Ryan Malloy
Raleigh, NC
 
Ryan Malloy   Raleigh, NC
 
The overabundance of bolts on this route is a bit absurd. The first bolt can be clipped while standing at the belay ledge, two bolts can be clipped from the same stance at the ledge halfway up, and the last bolt is two feet below the anchors.

This route is about the same height as the first bolt on Know Ethics, and yet it has more bolts than Know Ethics. O_o Apr 19, 2015
Tyler Hutchinson  
  5.8
A fun little route, though I agree, the bolts are abundant (or redundant???). Great warm up piece, especially if you like the piece of mind of a few extra clips! Apr 10, 2017