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Cloud Atlas

5.11+, Sport, 60 ft (18 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 13 votes
FA: Chris Smith 3/16
New Hampshire > Rumney > Armed & Dangerous (Ma…

Description

Climb the first pitch of Big Easy 5.7, step right and belay. 2 bolts. From the belay, continue up and right briefly into Boats From Cuba corner, then left to the spike. From there, delicately traverse left, and up to overlap. Back right until you can step left above the overlap, then a crux move to the top. 2 bolts.

Location

Above The Big Easy first pitch.

Protection

8 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cloud Atlas, bolted anchor marked.
[Hide Photo] Cloud Atlas, bolted anchor marked.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M Sprague
New England
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I got on this with Chris this weekend. It is a great route with good rock and really fun thought provoking beta. I found it a little heady feeling at the crux on my flash attempt even though the bolt was probably at my ankle, as some of the moves are tenuous. It is well bolted though. The grade is probably height dependent.

Eli, re. Boats, you may be able to use the first couple bolts of Chris's route for Boats and then they diverge left. Boats still and probably always until they naturally fall, will have big loose blocks. To trundle them would wipe out some very cool old cliff trees. Mar 21, 2016
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the info Mark. Apr 1, 2016
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Onsighted this one today. It was close. Very tricky and difficult moves just below the anchor (and a wet hold that almost blew it for me). I really liked everything up to the crux but even after the send I couldn't figure out a sequence that made the crux what I would call "fun" haha. But a good challenge and worth doing :) Feb 27, 2018
Daniel Kaye
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Finally got to try this. Eventually I think I found a pretty good sequence for the top crux, felt almost smooth, but I actually found the section above getting from above just above the dike to just below the overlap. I couldn't find a way up or left & up, and ended up pulling on the draw. There were lots of spots that looks like a hold could have recently come off, anybody have any idea if that happened, or just better beta there?

I also thought the easy-ish moves up the boats form cuba corner weren't that well protected by the last bolt way to your left - with the threes and sideways fall potential - unless I went the wrong way, not a fall I'd want to take. I ended up slinging a small slightly chossy hole in the back of that corner to make myself feel better, which ended up being about halfway in-between the last and previous bolts.

Otherwise, some pretty nice movement I didn't expect when looking but before climbing this. Jul 30, 2018
Clay Thomas
Boston, Mass.
 
[Hide Comment] Adventurous sport outing! Super tricky. It's pretty hilarious to give this is the same grade as Mitosis.

It still visually looks like a bunch of rock scars / might-have-been-holds-now-broken-off right above the spike. But maybe it's just always been like that - desperate. I went kinda far right above the spike to some slopey bits.

True crux passing the overlap was very interesting and sequential, though short. Nice climb! Apr 10, 2024