Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Scott Brockmeier, 1989
Page Views: 862 total · 9/month
Shared By: Rob P. on Aug 12, 2011
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is the bolted line between Ex Nihilo and Rapprochment. Climb the right facing corner for a few bolts, then make some bouldery moves to the right arete (crux) and continue up to a small stance on a horizontal ledge. Shake out here, because the pump will continue as you climb the slightly overhung face using small sequential edges. Very fun climb, get on it!

This climb is rated 5.11 in both guide books, but seems much harder than other 5.11's at the cliff. Maybe 12a?

Location

This is the right facing corner between Ex Nihilo and Rapprochement. Look for bolts!

Protection

Bolts. I placed one stopper on the lead between the 1st and 2nd bolt. It would probably take a blue alien as well. If you blow it clipping the second bolt without additional pro, you will deck.

Photos

Levi Ender
Denver, CO
Levi Ender   Denver, CO
I climbed this route the other day. It was pretty fun but I didn't place a nut inbetween the first two bolts. Definitely no joke 12a off the ground on the first 3 bolts. Run out between the last and second to last bolt also. I placed a BD .5 at the last ledge I believe. Sep 18, 2011
Peter L Scott
Pequot Lakes, MN
 
Peter L Scott   Pequot Lakes, MN
 
FA circa 1989 by Scott Brockmeier Sep 20, 2011
Kris Gorny

  5.12a/b
Kris Gorny    
  5.12a/b
Really liked this route. The technical crux is inching up the dihedral past the first 3 bolts (and some gear) but the overhanging headwall above is no joke either -- with two exposed mini cruxes in the hard 11-range. Intimidating climb which, despite good rests, is pumpy all the way to the end. Great journey to the top of Palisade Head. Jul 25, 2016