Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: Dave Pagel
Page Views: 743 total · 5/month
Shared By: randy baum on Feb 16, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

Arms Race is located about 30 yards north of north tower. The top is just below an eroded area, which, in this case, is a dirt pit filled with gravel and rotten roots. It looks as though water runs through this v-shaped ditch and then down the route's upper dihedral.

The route begins on a small pedestal and then climbs a 20 foot flared crack in solid rock. The section is the crux and calls for hard-to-see beta. the climb then meanders up increasingly choosy rock for another 20 ft to a small ledge. this section's 5.9. From the ledge the climb finishes up a dirty (lichen) and chossy (loose, poor quality, and so on) dihedral that goes at 5.8.

If you dig the crux on this climb, get on the vastly superior Mr. Lean.

Protection

Gear: two #2 camalots; singles of blue to black TCUs, #1 and #3 camalots. I did not place any nuts, as the bottom section is splitter and the top is a frickin chosspile with funky, semi-parallel cracks.

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randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
some say perfection cannot be improved. well, here's my attempt to improve upon a thibbs route description. haha.

arm's race is located about 30 yards north of north tower. the top is just below an eroded area, which, in this case, is a dirt pit filled with gravel and rotten roots. it looks as though water runs through this v-shaped ditch and then down the route's upper dihedral.

the route begins on a small pedestal and then climbs a 20 foot flared crack in solid rock. this section is the crux and calls for hard-to-see beta. the climb then meanders up increasingly choosy rock for another 20 ft to a small ledge. this section's 5.9. from the ledge the climb finishes up a dirty (lichen) and chossy (loose, poor quality, and so on) dihedral that goes at 5.8.

if you dig the crux on this climb, get on the vastly superior mr. lean.

gear for arms race: two #2 camalots; singles of blue to black TCUs, #1 and #3 camalots. i did not place any nuts, as the bottom section is splitter and the top is a frickin chosspile with funky, semi-parallel cracks.

i think this is the longest comment i have ever made on mproject. i have no clue why i wrote so much about such a mediocre route. Jun 21, 2009