Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Peter L Scott and Scott Brockmeier, 1988
Page Views: 2,621 total · 17/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Aug 8, 2011
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Balancy and technical face and arete climbing. Little spicy with a runout between 3rd and 4th bolt. Holds are sometimes difficult to find but they are there and they're decent. The question is: can you hold on long enough to find them?

Belay from the ledge with a bolt. Frome here step right and go up the face. You could start 40ft lower and add a pumpy 5.10c crack (bring medium cams and nuts).

The name of the climb comes from Tom Waits's song "Putnam County":

And they'd suck on Coca Colas, yeah, and be spittin' Day's Work
Until the moon was a stray dog on the ridge and...
And the taverns would be swollen until the naked eye of 2 a.m.
And the Stratocasters slung over the Burgermeister beer guts
And swizzle stick legs jackknifed over naugahyde stools... yeah

Location Suggest change

Face on the pillar to climber's left of Jim's Crack. The easiest way to locate the bolts is from the top of Jim's Crack. Bolt for belay anchor is at the grassy ledges left of the arete.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts, 1 additional bolt at the belay. Small cams (yellow Alien) useful to reduce the runout between bolt 3 and 4.

Photos

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