Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Peter L Scott and Scott Brockmeier, 1988
Page Views: 1,360 total · 15/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Aug 8, 2011
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Balancy and technical face and arete climbing. Little spicy with a runout between 3rd and 4th bolt. Holds are sometimes difficult to find but they are there and they're decent. The question is: can you hold on long enough to find them?

Belay from the ledge with a bolt. Frome here step right and go up the face. You could start 40ft lower and add a pumpy 5.10c crack (bring medium cams and nuts).

The name of the climb comes from Tom Waits's song "Putnam County":

And they'd suck on Coca Colas, yeah, and be spittin' Day's Work
Until the moon was a stray dog on the ridge and...
And the taverns would be swollen until the naked eye of 2 a.m.
And the Stratocasters slung over the Burgermeister beer guts
And swizzle stick legs jackknifed over naugahyde stools... yeah

Location

Face on the pillar to climber's left of Jim's Crack. The easiest way to locate the bolts is from the top of Jim's Crack. Bolt for belay anchor is at the grassy ledges left of the arete.

Protection

4 bolts, 1 additional bolt at the belay. Small cams (yellow Alien) useful to reduce the runout between bolt 3 and 4.

Photos

Peter L Scott
Pequot Lakes, MN
 
Peter L Scott   Pequot Lakes, MN
 
FA was by Peter L Scott
Not Chris Holbeck(he is a friend of mine and will confirm this)

The name comes from Tom Waits lyrics

Originally there was a minivan size block at the top split by a finger crack. The year after the FA the block parted ways with the cliff. The bolts were hand drilled on rappel. It would be O.K. with me if someone added a bolt towards the top where the block once was.

This was never meant to be a sport route. It was a mixed gear route.
Glad to see someone climbing it. Sep 20, 2011
Kris Gorny

  5.11c
Kris Gorny    
  5.11c
Thanks for the info, Peter. Updated the route description. Sep 20, 2011
Peter L Scott
Pequot Lakes, MN
 
Peter L Scott   Pequot Lakes, MN
 
Thanks for the credit and update Kris. The added lyrics are a nice touch. Tom Waits is one of my favorite artist. Sep 24, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
Take a yellow Alien/orange TCU/.4 BD if youd like to protect the run out between the third and fourth bolts. The pro goes in a hard to see crack that is behind a large wrapper jug on the face right of the arête.

Also, take a runner for the first bolt to minimize rope drag. Sep 25, 2011