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Routes in Palisade Head
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A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13 |
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A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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A Twister With Teeth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Aching Light T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Avoidance 2x TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bugaboo Project T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Danger High Voltage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Driving in Duluth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Echoes Arete S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fool's Progress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hyper Light Drifter S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lightweaver S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Metamorphosis, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Northern Exposure (***CLOSED***) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Palisaid T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pamplemoose T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Phantom Corner T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quartz crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Queen of Venus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rejuvenation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Scars and Tripes Forever T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soli Deo Gloria T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sudden Impact TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Superior Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mike Dahlberg |
| Page Views: | 2,196 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | James Loveridge on Sep 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Description
Start to the Left of the rotten/shattered overhanging seam. Do a couple moves on side-pulls to get established on wall and traverse directly Right to good hold at base of shattered crack. Climb rotten seam up and right until it ends at rest stance in shallow dihedral. Follow shallow corner up to the hanging block at which point you gave 2 choices: Go straight up lie-backing hanging block (burly but secure) -or- sneak left and do easier but quite delicate and insecure moves which reward you with a no hands rest leaning against the Left side of the hanging block. Finish on good crimps up short final head wall. Kinda a "gimme" at 12a (some suggest 11d) but the botom bit is pumpy and the top section is tricky. It's a great TR as well as "heady" lead. fun and varied climbing.
Location - History
This climb is located on the north end of the Amphitheater between Superior Crack/Superior Arête and Driving in Duluth. The top is about 20' to the climbers right (North) of the Superior Arête promontory. Look for a 5" wide "sideways tombstone" hanging block that juts out a foot or so from the cliff face 10 feet below the top. Set up TR or post-lead anchor here. HISTORY: This is a former Aid climb known as "We Trade Our Youth For Wisdom" (A4-). Rick Kollath did the FA on aid. Mike Dahlberg did the FFA with pre-placed gear for the overhanging bottom rotten/shattered section (just the first 30').
Protection
Although it would not be impossible to place gear in the bottom section on lead it is HIGHLY recommended to pre-equip the bottom 30 feet! On rappel it takes a considerable amount of time and skill to finagle gear into the funky slots and rotten cracks. Even then, most of it is not extremely confidence inspiring (It's ok, just not what I'd call Bomber). Bring a set of stoppers and TCU/Alien/C3's, medium sized cams up to BD #2 (3") as well as a long (48") runner to sling the "sideways tombstone" up top.
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