Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Brian Gitar
Page Views: 296 total · 15/month
Shared By: Shane Steele on Jun 25, 2017
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

A shallow corner with a dirty crack down low and some mildly loose blocks up higher. If that doesn't entice you to make the trek all the way down to the south Annex, picture yourself stemming out on thin feet with excellent finger locks in a sustained right facing corner that is slightly overhung. Protected from cold winds that chill the crowds in the Amphitheater, down here the calm lake water could almost be inviting on a warm enough day...

Climb easy face holds and ledges to a high first piece, pull up into the corner proper and fire away for 40 feet of quality that is on (mostly) solid rock. Step up to a small ledge for a rest before the last 25 feet of loose 5.8 crack climbing to the top.

With more traffic this route should clean up nicely.

Location

Find yourself in the South Annex hiking past the loose gully along a faint trail. If you're leading the route, better to approach from the top and rap in than descend this 3rd class death trap. Continue past the first and obvious corner with a conifer near the edge to the next corner. You're there.

Protection

Single rack of cams to 3" with doubles of finger to thin hand sizes. Rigging rope for the trees at the top.

Photos

Gavin Purcell
Minneapolis, MN
 
Gavin Purcell   Minneapolis, MN
 
A dirty and chossy crack. Two solid pieces of protection the whole route placed about half way up. It's worth doing as a top rope and the location is secluded with great view of the sea caves to the South. Sep 5, 2017