Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, TR, 120 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Rick Kollath and Dave Pagel - FA (Aid), James Loveridge - FFA (TR), Taylor Krosbakken - FFA (Lead)|
|Page Views:||210 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||Taylor Krosbakken on Sep 9, 2019|
|Admins:||Kris Gorny, chris tregge|
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (email@example.com), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Start in the hole next to the cedar tree on the left side of the north face of the tower. Stem your way up the crumbly rock, try to find some feet for a few lay back moves, then jam your way up the sharp crack to the big ledge. Trad Anchor. First pitch clocks in at around 5.10 crumbly.
The start of the second pitch off the big ledge is GAME ON for the first boulder problem crux featuring several big moves to edges and finger locks on a flat overhanging wall ending at a thank-you-jesus jug. Then trend up and right and eventually back left up easier but tricky climbing leading you to the upper head wall crux. Figure out a way to position yourself on the blank wall and stretch (read: dyno) to the next ledge. Good luck if you are short. Hold it together and try to appreciate the spectacular position of this route while you make it to the top.
For leading this route, it makes sense to do in two pitches, since a fall at the very low crux off the giant ledge mid route would likely land you right on it with rope stretch. With the ledge being big enough to take a nap on, it doesn't effect the difficulty of the climb, just makes it a little safer.
For TRing it is very reasonable to do as one pitch. At least 2 directional are needed. One somewhere in the middle of the second pitch and a .75 somewhere near the top of the first pitch in the sharp corner crack climbers right of the ledge.
Original aid route was rated A3+ and was done as 2 pitches as well.