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Routes in Palisade Head
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A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13 |
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A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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A Twister With Teeth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Avoidance 2x TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Danger High Voltage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Driving in Duluth T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Metamorphosis, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Night Vision T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Northern Exposure (***CLOSED***) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Palisaid T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pamplemoose T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Phantom Corner T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Queen of Venus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scars and Tripes Forever T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soli Deo Gloria T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sudden Impact TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Superior Crack T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA (Aid): Rick Kollath & Dave Pagel, FFA (TR): James Loveridge, FFA(Lead): Taylor Krosbakken |
| Page Views: | 690 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Krosbakken on Sep 9, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kris Gorny, K Ice |
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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Description
A great climb in a very cool position on the outside exposed face of the North Tower.
Start in the hole next to the cedar tree on the left side of the north face of the tower. Stem your way up the crumbly rock, try to find some feet for a few lay back moves, then jam your way up the sharp crack to the big ledge. Trad Anchor. First pitch clocks in at around 5.10 crumbly.
The start of the second pitch off the big ledge is GAME ON for the first boulder problem crux featuring several big moves to edges and finger locks on a flat overhanging wall ending at a thank-you-jesus jug. Then trend up and right and eventually back left up easier but tricky climbing leading you to the upper head wall crux. Figure out a way to position yourself on the blank wall and stretch (read: dyno) to the next ledge. Good luck if you are short. Hold it together and try to appreciate the spectacular position of this route while you make it to the top.
For leading this route, it makes sense to do in two pitches, since a fall at the very low crux off the giant ledge mid route would likely land you right on it with rope stretch. With the ledge being big enough to take a nap on, it doesn't effect the difficulty of the climb, just makes it a little safer.
Note:
For TRing it is very reasonable to do as one pitch. At least 2 directional are needed. One somewhere in the middle of the second pitch and a .75 somewhere near the top of the first pitch in the sharp corner crack climbers right of the ledge.
Original aid route was rated A3+ and was done as 2 pitches as well.
Start in the hole next to the cedar tree on the left side of the north face of the tower. Stem your way up the crumbly rock, try to find some feet for a few lay back moves, then jam your way up the sharp crack to the big ledge. Trad Anchor. First pitch clocks in at around 5.10 crumbly.
The start of the second pitch off the big ledge is GAME ON for the first boulder problem crux featuring several big moves to edges and finger locks on a flat overhanging wall ending at a thank-you-jesus jug. Then trend up and right and eventually back left up easier but tricky climbing leading you to the upper head wall crux. Figure out a way to position yourself on the blank wall and stretch (read: dyno) to the next ledge. Good luck if you are short. Hold it together and try to appreciate the spectacular position of this route while you make it to the top.
For leading this route, it makes sense to do in two pitches, since a fall at the very low crux off the giant ledge mid route would likely land you right on it with rope stretch. With the ledge being big enough to take a nap on, it doesn't effect the difficulty of the climb, just makes it a little safer.
Note:
For TRing it is very reasonable to do as one pitch. At least 2 directional are needed. One somewhere in the middle of the second pitch and a .75 somewhere near the top of the first pitch in the sharp corner crack climbers right of the ledge.
Original aid route was rated A3+ and was done as 2 pitches as well.
Location
Faith is located on the East Face of the North Tower. The North Tower basically has 3 sides. Gun Fight is on the north face of the North Tower, "North Tower, South Face" is obviously on the south face of the tower, and Faith climbs the face closest to the lake. Set your TR anchor in the little notch and there is a little ledge climbers right to sit on and belay. The start is more so on the north side. It actually starts in kind of a hole on the left side of the north face very close to the Cedar tree.
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