Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kurt Hager
Page Views: 2,506 total · 52/month
Shared By: KurtH on Aug 8, 2016
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

This steep and intricate line takes a stunning position up the blank face of A Mind Forever Voyaging, generally following a faint seam that comes and goes throughout.

P1
5.13-, 120 feet, 7 B and small gear. Sustained, technical and slightly runout climbing leads through several long and pumpy 5.12 cruxes. The final smack down comes with an abrupt 12 foot crimp traverse to gain the belay ledge.

NOTE: that if lowering from the Pitch 1 anchors you will need a 70 meter rope. A 60 meter will NOT reach the bottom.

P2
5.13, 65 feet, 2 B plus mid-sized gear. A powerful and bouldery pitch. From the ledge this climbs the obvious thin seam. Three cruxes, each one harder than the previous, lead to an easier top out. Poor feet, several deadpoints, strenuous body tension on gastons and side-pulls characterizes the climbing.

Location

The route starts just left of Danger High Voltage if looking up from the ground.

Shout out to Rick Kollath and Dave Pagel for developing this as an aid route, which I believe has seen few (maybe no?) repeats. From what I've heard via word of mouth is that this was done in winter, bolts where hand-drilled on lead. Even if that's not the case, I'm gonna believe it since that's a great tale and good adventure.

Protection

draws, small nuts through #1 red BD cam. You would be hard pressed to find more than 3 placements per pitch.

Photos