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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 180 ft
FA: Rick Kollath
Page Views: 2,261 total, 29/month
Shared By: Bobrunning Running on Jun 5, 2011
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

The crux is in an open dihedral about 25' below the top. There are small holds for hands and feet. It is three moves to clear the crux.

Location

The route is located about 30' to the left of Scars and Tripes forever.

Protection

Top rope anchor - It can be led with standard rack.

Photos

Mike Wallraff
VAN(currently)
Mike Wallraff   VAN(currently)
Climbed it this weekend. I agree with Travis and Kris about the picture and description on Scars and Tripes(a classic IMO).

Anyway to the dirt. This route is not 180 ft. Or atleast I highly recommend not climbing the first 80 ft. Absolute choss. Was ripping things off above and below me as I climbed.

The top 100 ft are definately worth doing and clean. The final dihedral is a doozy.

Lower down 100 ft (+/-) to the obvious ledge and start there. Jul 9, 2012
Kris Gorny    
I agree, Bryan your description sounds awful like Scars and Tripes and the picture looks like the top of Scars and Tripes as well (compare the boulders at the bottom). Travis -- thanks for pointing this out. May 21, 2012
Doesn't the pic of "Sam" in the final dihedral look a whole heck of a lot like the end of Scars and Tripes? May 21, 2012
Bryan Karban
  5.10b
Bryan Karban  
  5.10b
This is a great, long route. The start is high quality 5.8 to 5.9 climbing with really pleasant liebacking up some huge flakes. I found that the route has two distinct cruxes. The first involves some creative offwidth climbing through a very narrow dihedral. The second is the last 15 feet of the route and requires a few bouldery moves using the crack splitting the middle of a beautiful dihedral and an arete off to the right with precise footwork.

For the lead, I broke the route into two pitches after running out of gear to protect the final crux. I belayed at the base of the offwidth leading to the final crux.

Protection: Doubles of mid-range cams. A #4 is helpful. Other than that, a standard rack is sufficient. Off-width pro is not necessary. Aug 29, 2011