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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Kennedy and Dave Mital
Page Views: 11,276 total · 82/month
Shared By: Travis Hibbard on Feb 15, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Located towards the south end of Palisade Head Laceration Jam takes an aesthetic line up a striking hand crack. The second pitch takes you up a wide crack around the corner to a belay ledge. The third and less memorable pitch takes you through a roof and up a chimney to the top.

A great route in an even better location.

Protection [Suggest Change]

P1 The crux pitch leads up the crack, past the overhang, to an airy stance on the left. Belay takes orange tcu, .75 BD, and 3 BD. Or skip this and link into 2.

P2 Continue up into wider terrain and traverse right around the corner to a ledge with an old pin belay. Back up with pro in crack if necessary.

P3 Traverse around block and climb through an overhang (5.8) and up a chimney (5.6R) to the topo.

Rack: Singles of Orange Tcu - .75 BD, Doubles from 1-4 BD with an optional 5 for P2.
Kris Gorny

  5.10b
Kris Gorny    
  5.10b
Mike Farris's guidebook mentions a chockstone wedged at the end of the first pitch. This chockstone, backed up with a #4.5-#5 cam could at the time be used for a hanging belay. We repeated the climb in October 2006 and the chockstone is no longer there. We ended up on a hanging belay off two large cams. I would recommend setting a safer belay sooner -- on the ledge on Christmas Tree Crack. It's on the left just past the overhang. Feb 16, 2007
Thanks for the beta and pictures for the route, the 1st pitch is awesome, and I can't wait to try all three once it gets nice out again. Feb 18, 2007
ferrells
  5.10b
ferrells  
  5.10b
This was one of the first 5.10 trad routes I ever tried, and I was in way over my head. The first pitch is a wonderful, sustained, slice and dice affair with great pro. On my first attempt, I took what was, to my young mind, a monster whipper on this pitch (perhaps 25 feet - and my first lead fall). Shaky and scared, I placed all my gear low, and didn't have anything bigger than a number 9 hex, and number 3 camalot. After climbing above my last piece - that number three camalot, I gunned it for the belay ledge, and whipped out of a couple of fist jams near the end (first fist jams I ever did).
I finished the pitch, but in poor style (without lowering and pulling rope). Without anything bigger than a number 3 camalot, the second pitch was all but un-protectable. My partner climbed up a little ways, girth hitched a round stone half-way lodged inside the crack, and having no other way to protect the crack, almost shit his pants as he climbed above the "pro". He came down, and gave me the sharp end. I climbed the big right leaning crack without gear, and placed the number three camalot just as the crack wrapped around the corner. I will never forget going around the corner, having no idea what I would find (we didn't bring the topo), and seeing an unprotectable hand traverse stretching far to my right.
I finished the pitch and we finished the route, and it stands as one of the best experiences of my life.
I went back last year and did the route again with another partner, without falling, and with gear that fit the crack. It wasn't as hard as I remember (I now know how to jam, and have climbed much harder routes), but it was just as good, with some of the best exposure and best climbing in the region. Oct 25, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.10b
Kris Gorny    
  5.10b
That's a cool story. When I climbed it with Adam Therneau, we set up a hanging belay on that chockstone and were both hanging off of it. Then, standing at the second belay, I heard Adam yell to me that the chockstone moved as he stepped on it. We were lucky. I guess this thing eventually fell off on its own or else we'd hear about it. Oct 30, 2007
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
I would definitely recommend a double set of #2-4, with a 4.5 and/or a 5 for the upper section. This can be done in two pitches, with enough runners to help the drag, and would make a stellar first pitch. The traverse is creepy; the razor sharp edge feels like its going to break off at any instant! Classic route. Jun 30, 2008
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
with big gear, not R. Oct 28, 2008
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.10b PG13
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.10b PG13
If you combine the first two pitches it woul be usefull to have 3 #2's, 4 #3's, 2 #4's, and 1 #5 BD's. Otherwise this is probably a R rating in my opinion. The last pitch can be safely protected the whole way. There is a finger crack to the right of the chimney that takes gear well but is pretty mossy. May 4, 2009
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
 
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
 
FYI: I removed fixed #4 Camalot from the top of the 1st Pitch May 24, 2010
ferrells
  5.10b
ferrells  
  5.10b
a fixed no. 4 camalot! lucky dog Jun 20, 2010
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
When I was 18 this route triggered an epiphany that rumbled deep inside me... A freshman, once again, in college, as well as, on the stone... I struggled through the learning curve of hand/wide hands with a minimal rack of cams and probably made it by, by fear alone. When I set my first hanging belay with bloody hands and a racing heart, there was no turning back on crack climbing or adventurous stone. I do love the North Shore. Oct 28, 2010
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
 
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
 
I carried my #6 Camalot all the way up this planning on shoving it in on the 2nd pitch... it doesn't fit. Bring #5 BD (purple, not the old green size) Camalot for extra pro on 2nd pitch, however a 3rd #4 would probably work just as well, depending on how close you like your gear. A very large hex (BD #11) would be nice on P2 as well.

The rusty bolts at the end of the second pitch can be backed up with a larger cam #4, 5, or 6 BD (if you saved one).

The flake on P2 is as easy as playground monkey bars, but feeling it move while you pull on it (in certain places) and placing gear behind it makes the adrenaline levels rise...

If this climb was solid Yosemite Granite you'd see a lot more traffic on it. Jul 5, 2011
J.Roatch
Leavenworth, WA
 
J.Roatch   Leavenworth, WA
 
perfect first pitch, beautifully smooth crack with a few larger areas. The last two pitches actually felt more difficult to me, probably was the mindset. Aug 13, 2011
The R is only for the easy finish chimney. The first two pitches take very good pro. 1st pitch is super fun. 2nd pitch the leader needs to think of protecting the second so they don't pendulum after removing their last piece. So while that 2nd pitch traverse is easy climbing drop a couple large cams in the crack to protect your second as they traverse. Nice photos. Mar 22, 2016
Greg Kosinski
Minneapolis, MN
Greg Kosinski   Minneapolis, MN
Good bit of loose rock on the second half of the first pitch. I pulled off a basketball sized peice with just a hug that could have gone straight to they belayer if I didn't hold on. If anyone gets my #3 out od the first pitch and is passing through Minneapolis I'd appreciate getting it back Aug 10, 2017
Bob Westman
Minneapolis, MN
Bob Westman   Minneapolis, MN
hey sorry for the probably dumb question im just new to trad. what does the R mean? Jun 6, 2018

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