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Routes in Palisade Head
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A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13 |
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A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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A Twister With Teeth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Aching Light T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Avoidance 2x TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bugaboo Project T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Danger High Voltage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Driving in Duluth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hyper Light Drifter S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mann Act T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Metamorphosis, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Northern Exposure (***CLOSED***) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Palisaid T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pamplemoose T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Phantom Corner T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Queen of Venus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rejuvenation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Scars and Tripes Forever T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soli Deo Gloria T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sudden Impact TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Superior Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Dave Rone |
| Page Views: | 5,818 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Rone on Feb 16, 2007 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Protection
You can use some bigger cams (up to 3 camalot on the right arching crack) on the lower part of the route, leading to the big ledge. After that, the crack starts out tight hands, then ranges from tips to large fingers. So take cams from 00 C3 up to 3 Camalot, and stoppers 8-12.
Note: On the FFA I used only stoppers, hexes, and slider nuts.
Note: On the FFA I used only stoppers, hexes, and slider nuts.
Location
Mr. Lean is about 20' south of Mack the Knife, and is best viewed from the North Tower. From North Tower, look south for the large pedestal at about 1/3rd height on left edge of the cliff face, and the crack which rises from the pedestal. This crack, about 3' right of the arete, is the business of Mr. Lean.
Description
From the talus, climb up to a prominent right-arching crack that gets much wider as you go higher. Jam, layback, and face climb the crack to the large pedestal. From the pedestal, climb the hands/tight hands crack to a locker finger slot and pull up onto a small sloping ledge. Shake out here, it's your last chance! From here the crack narrows to finger tips for a few moves (crux) until you can reach good holds where a horizontal crack intersects the route. Although the difficulty eases the pump factor takes off as you continue up the overhanging crack that has widened to fingers/rattley fingers. Finish by traversing left on small edges to a big ledge about 15' below the top and then up the arete. A harder finish continues up the crack a few more feet to the arete.
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