Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: Dave Rone
Page Views: 4,581 total · 28/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Feb 16, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Protection

You can use some bigger cams (up to 3 camalot on the right arching crack) on the lower part of the route, leading to the big ledge. After that, the crack starts out tight hands, then ranges from tips to large fingers. So take cams from 00 C3 up to 3 Camalot, and stoppers 8-12.

Note: On the FFA I used only stoppers, hexes, and slider nuts.

Location

Mr. Lean is about 20' south of Mack the Knife, and is best viewed from the North Tower. From North Tower, look south for the large pedestal at about 1/3rd height on left edge of the cliff face, and the crack which rises from the pedestal. This crack, about 3' right of the arete, is the business of Mr. Lean.

Description

From the talus, climb up to a prominent right-arching crack that gets much wider as you go higher. Jam, layback, and face climb the crack to the large pedestal. From the pedestal, climb the hands/tight hands crack to a locker finger slot and pull up onto a small sloping ledge. Shake out here, it's your last chance! From here the crack narrows to finger tips for a few moves (crux) until you can reach good holds where a horizontal crack intersects the route. Although the difficulty eases the pump factor takes off as you continue up the overhanging crack that has widened to fingers/rattley fingers. Finish by traversing left on small edges to a big ledge about 15' below the top and then up the arete. A harder finish continues up the crack a few more feet to the arete.

Photos