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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: Dave Rone
Page Views: 3,801 total, 29/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Feb 16, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Protection

You can use some bigger cams (up to 3 camalot on the right arching crack) on the lower part of the route, leading to the big ledge. After that, the crack starts out tight hands, then ranges from tips to large fingers. So take cams from 00 C3 up to 3 Camalot, and stoppers 8-12.

Note: On the FFA I used only stoppers, hexes, and slider nuts.

Location

Mr. Lean is about 20' south of Mack the Knife, and is best viewed from the North Tower. From North Tower, look south for the large pedestal at about 1/3rd height on left edge of the cliff face, and the crack which rises from the pedestal. This crack, about 3' right of the arete, is the business of Mr. Lean.

Description

From the talus, climb up to a prominent right-arching crack that gets much wider as you go higher. Jam, layback, and face climb the crack to the large pedestal. From the pedestal, climb the hands/tight hands crack to a locker finger slot and pull up onto a small sloping ledge. Shake out here, it's your last chance! From here the crack narrows to finger tips for a few moves (crux) until you can reach good holds where a horizontal crack intersects the route. Although the difficulty eases the pump factor takes off as you continue up the overhanging crack that has widened to fingers/rattley fingers. Finish by traversing left on small edges to a big ledge about 15' below the top and then up the arete. A harder finish continues up the crack a few more feet to the arete.
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
frost, you need to hop on OZ. poseidon's a close second. Dec 15, 2010
Frost
  5.11d
Frost  
  5.11d
This gets my vote for best Palisade crack climb. 'Gently' overhanging fingers on solid rock. Props to those who have lead. Looking forward to that as the gear looks perfect! Dec 14, 2010
Great route and a solid lead for the 5.11 leader! The gear is great almost the entire way with only a couple sections (mostly at the bottom) of less-than-perfect rock. A decent rest can be had right before the crux.

The rack I brought consisted of doubles from blue TCU/red C3 to #1 Camalot, and a single #2 Camalot. One could also find a place for a green C3/purple TCU, but it wasn't necessary. A couple extendable slings were crucial, too, for the very bottom and very top.

The anchor at the top can be made with a few .75 Camalots and/or a #6 Camalot. Oct 14, 2009
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
Glenn Burns   St. Paul, MN
route description and info provided by Dave Rone. Oct 25, 2008
Agreed, I put it up here forever ago as a place holder. Darin, switch this to under Chris or yourself so that a better description of someone that lead the thing can put down. Sep 29, 2008
Looking at the photo on this page, Mack the Knife is just outside the right side of the frame. So, Mr. Lean is the arete just south of Mack the knife. TR setup in an obvious 1" crack. This route could maybe use a better description overall huh...? Sep 29, 2008
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
one of the best climbs of the grade at palisade. (not as good as poseidon, but pretty darn close!)

great gear. pumpy. sporty movements. long. climb it!! Sep 29, 2008
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
The crux to this is about 30 ft above the tree. I got a good blue and a purple tcu within 3-4 ft of each other to protect it, using a bomber toe hook down the crack with my right foot. Super pumpy to the max! Trad is rad. Aug 25, 2008