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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 150 ft
FA: Scott Brockmeier and Peter L Scott , 1989
Page Views: 3,447 total, 28/month
Shared By: BrianUp Up on Aug 9, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

8/9/07: I'm surprised this route was not in already. It has been about 5 years since I climbed it so I will try to edit this post if someone reminds me of details. It was fantastic. I have a good memory of crimping hard high above the lake on a sunny day. Long and strenuous. Slightly more than vertical makes for good exposure. I only top-roped it but the bolts were in good condition at the time. 5.10d in the Mike Farris guidebook, and that sounds about right. 10/15/07: Thanks for comments Dave Rone - I changed the length to 150 feet.

Location

From above it is on a prow just north of Danger High Voltage, about 10-20 feet away. Near pointy orange rock. Set an anchor over the edge and have your belayer lower you almost to the bottom, or rappel. Stop a little below the first bolt or where the rock gets dirty from high water. If you might not be able to climb it all you will need another way to get yourself to the top.

Protection

Lead: Bolts and some supplemental gear. See comments below for more up to date pro suggestions [7/21/09 update]. Sounds like 12 draws minimum.

Top Rope: If you have trouble setting topropes at the North Shore it is because you don't have a long enough piece of webbing.
Peter L Scott
  5.10d
Peter L Scott  
  5.10d
FA circa 1989 by Scott Brockmeier and Peter L Scott

We did this in two pitches. I lead the 1st short pitch. Scott lead the 2nd pitch. He placed the bolts so it's really his route.

This was intended as a mixed gear route. Sep 20, 2011
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.10d
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.10d
I placed a totaly of 4 small cams but probably could have got away with 3, very safe lead. Jun 2, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
amazing stemming, exposure.

for rappelling, a 70m will not reach the ground. we set up a single line rappel between danger high voltage and the top out of feathery tong. this way, the rappel line did not interfere with leading.

climb takes 11-12 draws.

look for a pin between the fifth and the sixth bolt.

gear is needed in the section below the second to last bolt. the crack -- which is rad! -- takes #2 to .4 BD cams (two are sufficient). use runners for these pieces. May 9, 2009
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
  5.10d
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
  5.10d
The "orange pointed rock" is very distinct. Look for a symmetrical pointed, orange rock and throw the rope over this to the left side. The falcon guide tells you to stop on a ledge, but we went all the way to the ground. Just keep looking down as you rappel and you will see bolts basically all the way down. Some of the edges toward the top are sharp. Beware while toproping. May 4, 2009
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
Thanks, Glenn. Sep 18, 2007
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
Glenn Burns   St. Paul, MN
changed from sport to trad Sep 17, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
I would not put this route (or any other route at Palisade) in a "Sport" category. It has some fixed pro but this is a "Trad" line. Sep 17, 2007