Type: Trad, TR, 150 ft
FA: Scott Brockmeier and Peter L Scott , 1989
Page Views: 3,750 total · 27/month
Shared By: BrianUp Up on Aug 9, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

8/9/07: I'm surprised this route was not in already. It has been about 5 years since I climbed it so I will try to edit this post if someone reminds me of details. It was fantastic. I have a good memory of crimping hard high above the lake on a sunny day. Long and strenuous. Slightly more than vertical makes for good exposure. I only top-roped it but the bolts were in good condition at the time. 5.10d in the Mike Farris guidebook, and that sounds about right. 10/15/07: Thanks for comments Dave Rone - I changed the length to 150 feet.

Location

From above it is on a prow just north of Danger High Voltage, about 10-20 feet away. Near pointy orange rock. Set an anchor over the edge and have your belayer lower you almost to the bottom, or rappel. Stop a little below the first bolt or where the rock gets dirty from high water. If you might not be able to climb it all you will need another way to get yourself to the top.

Protection

Lead: Bolts and some supplemental gear. See comments below for more up to date pro suggestions [7/21/09 update]. Sounds like 12 draws minimum.

Top Rope: If you have trouble setting topropes at the North Shore it is because you don't have a long enough piece of webbing.
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
I would not put this route (or any other route at Palisade) in a "Sport" category. It has some fixed pro but this is a "Trad" line. Sep 17, 2007
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
Glenn Burns   St. Paul, MN
changed from sport to trad Sep 17, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
Thanks, Glenn. Sep 18, 2007
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
  5.10d
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
  5.10d
The "orange pointed rock" is very distinct. Look for a symmetrical pointed, orange rock and throw the rope over this to the left side. The falcon guide tells you to stop on a ledge, but we went all the way to the ground. Just keep looking down as you rappel and you will see bolts basically all the way down. Some of the edges toward the top are sharp. Beware while toproping. May 4, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
amazing stemming, exposure.

for rappelling, a 70m will not reach the ground. we set up a single line rappel between danger high voltage and the top out of feathery tong. this way, the rappel line did not interfere with leading.

climb takes 11-12 draws.

look for a pin between the fifth and the sixth bolt.

gear is needed in the section below the second to last bolt. the crack -- which is rad! -- takes #2 to .4 BD cams (two are sufficient). use runners for these pieces. May 9, 2009
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.10d
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.10d
I placed a totaly of 4 small cams but probably could have got away with 3, very safe lead. Jun 2, 2009
Peter L Scott
Pequot Lakes, MN
  5.10d
Peter L Scott   Pequot Lakes, MN
  5.10d
FA circa 1989 by Scott Brockmeier and Peter L Scott

We did this in two pitches. I lead the 1st short pitch. Scott lead the 2nd pitch. He placed the bolts so it's really his route.

This was intended as a mixed gear route. Sep 20, 2011