All Locations > Minnesota > N Shore Rock > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head

Smear Job

Name: Smear Job
Rating: 1.3

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Palisade Head

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	A Hard Rain TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
	A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	A Twister With Teeth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Aching Light T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Attention Wanders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Avoidance 2x TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Bloodberries T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bugaboo Project T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dirty Harry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Driving in Duluth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Echoes Arete S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fool's Progress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Hiawatha's Journey to Gitche Gumee T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hyper Light Drifter S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Lapidarian T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Lightweaver S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Look Pa and Ma, I'm a Trad Climber T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	MASH T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Metamorphosis, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mohammed Ali TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Night Vision T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Northern Exposure (*CLOSED*) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Obsidian T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Palisaid T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Pamplemoose T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Phantom Corner T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Quartz crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Queen of the Damned TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Queen of Venus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rejuvenation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Scars and Tripes Forever T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Soli Deo Gloria T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sudden Impact TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Superior Arete T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Superior Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Water Babies T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
GPS:	47.32016, -91.21086
FA:	Steve Mabley
Page Views:	646 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Backwards Eric on Sep 8, 2020
Admins:	K Ice, Kris Gorny, Robert Omann Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…

When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).

Description

Either start from the talus (for extra 5.9 climbing) or from the big ledge to get into the finger/thin hands crack. Lots of dirt seems to fall into this route, but the climbing is quite good.

Location

15 feet or so to the climber's right of Swizzlestick legs.

Protection

If you start from the big ledge (rather than the talus), a couple cams (C4 sizes): 1 and 4 to build the anchor. After that, the gear to lead it was: .4(2), .5, .75(2), 1(2), 2, 3(2).