Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Pagel and Rick Kollath
Page Views: 8,940 total · 60/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Hats off to Dave Pagel and Rick Kollath for this one. Awesome, sustained, and technical. Finger locks and laybacks in and around a thin crack. The crux is roughly 30 feet above the belay ledge but it doesn't get much easier all the way to the top. The last 10 feet are little run out but can be protected with a bomber nut placement. Farris's guidebook mentions first pitch, which is a short crack leading from the water to the belay ledge. Unless you have a boat, I am not sure how to do it without getting soaked.

Location

Very end of the Northern Ramparts. The corner with Poseidon Adventure is perhaps best visible from the clifftop at Mr. Lean/Mack the Knife (see beta photo) Walk along the cliff to the uphill section with no vegetation and lots of pebbles. Caution when locating the route looking down from the edge.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams. Belay at the ledge down low takes medium cams. Top anchor requires long slings wrapped around several smaller trees.
Frost
 
Frost  
 
If you're top-roping. I suggest doing it from the bottom (grab a drink of ice cold taconite water while you're down there). You add another 30 ft of 10+ finger climbing, and I would argue that it ups the grade to 12a. Sep 9, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
I did some of my first climbs at P head in the late 70's. A number of years later Dave Pagel gave me the tour of Palisade's new routes. We just TR climbed them but this one stands out as one of the best. It deserves the four stars and should not be missed. Nov 7, 2007
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
micro to small nuts for most of route. .75 and #2 BD; blue and purple TCU. long webbing for top anchor. anchor at the start of the climb takes small cams (.75 BD; red metolius; etc) and/or small nuts. for a anchor piece you can also use a couple 48" runners to clip the bolt on echoes that is up and to the left of the belay. May 12, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Classic! One of the best pitches I've been on in a long time. Aug 3, 2009
Just did an onsight trad lead of this! Suppppeerr epic experience.

I was wondering if anyone has thought of throwing bolts in at the belay station? I used the bomber natural anchor, the flake, but I don't know how stable that rock is? Just wondering what ya'll think about the ethics of bolting, especially since it is not a heavily frequented climb. Jul 5, 2014
CrazyCranium
Eden Prairie, MN
CrazyCranium   Eden Prairie, MN
There is absolutely no bolting allowed in the park (I think this applies to all MN state parks). The only exceptions I know of are the extremely oversized bolts at the top of a few routes at Shovel Point that the forest service put in to reduce the damage to trees that were being used as anchors. Aug 18, 2014