Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Pagel and Rick Kollath
Page Views: 10,263 total · 62/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

Hats off to Dave Pagel and Rick Kollath for this one. Awesome, sustained, and technical. Finger locks and laybacks in and around a thin crack. The crux is roughly 30 feet above the belay ledge but it doesn't get much easier all the way to the top. The last 10 feet are little run out but can be protected with a bomber nut placement. Farris's guidebook mentions first pitch, which is a short crack leading from the water to the belay ledge. Unless you have a boat, I am not sure how to do it without getting soaked.

Location

Very end of the Northern Ramparts. The corner with Poseidon Adventure is perhaps best visible from the clifftop at Mr. Lean/Mack the Knife (see beta photo) Walk along the cliff to the uphill section with no vegetation and lots of pebbles. Caution when locating the route looking down from the edge.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams. Belay at the ledge down low takes medium cams. Top anchor requires long slings wrapped around several smaller trees.

Photos