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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Pagel and Rick Kollath
Page Views: 8,043 total, 59/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Hats off to Dave Pagel and Rick Kollath for this one. Awesome, sustained, and technical. Finger locks and laybacks in and around a thin crack. The crux is roughly 30 feet above the belay ledge but it doesn't get much easier all the way to the top. The last 10 feet are little run out but can be protected with a bomber nut placement. Farris's guidebook mentions first pitch, which is a short crack leading from the water to the belay ledge. Unless you have a boat, I am not sure how to do it without getting soaked.

Location

Very end of the Northern Ramparts. The corner with Poseidon Adventure is perhaps best visible from the clifftop at Mr. Lean/Mack the Knife (see beta photo) Walk along the cliff to the uphill section with no vegetation and lots of pebbles. Caution when locating the route looking down from the edge.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams. Belay at the ledge down low takes medium cams. Top anchor requires long slings wrapped around several smaller trees.
CrazyCranium
Eden Prairie, MN
CrazyCranium   Eden Prairie, MN
There is absolutely no bolting allowed in the park (I think this applies to all MN state parks). The only exceptions I know of are the extremely oversized bolts at the top of a few routes at Shovel Point that the forest service put in to reduce the damage to trees that were being used as anchors. Aug 18, 2014
Just did an onsight trad lead of this! Suppppeerr epic experience.

I was wondering if anyone has thought of throwing bolts in at the belay station? I used the bomber natural anchor, the flake, but I don't know how stable that rock is? Just wondering what ya'll think about the ethics of bolting, especially since it is not a heavily frequented climb. Jul 5, 2014
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Classic! One of the best pitches I've been on in a long time. Aug 3, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
micro to small nuts for most of route. .75 and #2 BD; blue and purple TCU. long webbing for top anchor. anchor at the start of the climb takes small cams (.75 BD; red metolius; etc) and/or small nuts. for a anchor piece you can also use a couple 48" runners to clip the bolt on echoes that is up and to the left of the belay. May 12, 2008
I did some of my first climbs at P head in the late 70's. A number of years later Dave Pagel gave me the tour of Palisade's new routes. We just TR climbed them but this one stands out as one of the best. It deserves the four stars and should not be missed. Nov 7, 2007
Frost
 
Frost  
 
If you're top-roping. I suggest doing it from the bottom (grab a drink of ice cold taconite water while you're down there). You add another 30 ft of 10+ finger climbing, and I would argue that it ups the grade to 12a. Sep 9, 2007