Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,673 total · 43/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 24, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


89 Opinions

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Description

One of the classics of the area, and the back cover of Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Ed. Climb a somewhat chossy slab (5.6) with limited protection to a small ledge with a hand crack in it. Jam the crack to the top (5.9). Some people do this as one pitch or set up a belay at the ledge below the hand crack. You can easily rap in with a single 60m rope, not sure about 50m.
  • RCM&W #42, p.214.

Location

Phantom crack lies about 10 yards north of a rock retaining wall overlook in a corner. The crack is clearly visible from further down the cliff, making it quite photogenic.

Protection

Nuts and small cams for the bottom. Hand sized hexes and cams for the top. For the top rope setup I found a large cam (fist sized), nuts and tri-cams are helpful.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Unfortunately the good part of this climb is only abut 10 meters long. If it were longer, it would be a truly awesome route. This, Superior and Quettico make a nice afternoon round-up. May 24, 2006
Scott Schumann
SLC, UT
Scott Schumann   SLC, UT
Sandbag 5.9. Cruxy move down low to get in the to good hands up above. Yet another must do classic on the Shore. Nov 29, 2012
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
A must do. A good lead or easily toproped. One short crux section but it's all there for the patient climber. Jun 30, 2013
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.9 PG13
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.9 PG13
The pro on the lower half is all there but it is not straight very forward. Don't pass up any placements you see. I suggest checking out the gear while repelling. I give it a PG13. Awesome lead, now get on it! Jul 4, 2016