Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: FA: Dave Groth FFA: Rob Pilaczynski, August 28, 2011.
Page Views: 5,813 total · 38/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Stuck in the spotlight, it is hard to miss the line. Start up Superior Crack for 15 feet or so until you can traverse right onto the arete via edges. The route weaves its way up the arete switching sides now and then, with the crux at a small roof 1/3 or so the way up. Excellent stone and movement.

Protection

Quote from Rob Pilaczynski (FFA):
"The two cruxes have bomber gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a really good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall."
David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
It is a wild and complicated line also really fun. I just did the first TR about 5 years ago. Apr 24, 2008
James Loveridge
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
James Loveridge   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
I also wanted to add my name to the list of contacts for beta/info. Dave and I are the main activists here recently (along with Jeremy Schlick and Seth Dyer but they have moved to less topographically challenged locales). Please feel free to e-mail us through the "Contact" link on the personal page of this website. Apr 25, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.12 R
Kris Gorny    
  5.12 R
Yes, I heard it was led last weekend by a local climber, Rob P. Sep 1, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
that's a super ballsy lead. i'd like to hear some details. was it a headpoint? what gear did he use? got any photos? Sep 1, 2011
Rob P.
Twin Cities
Rob P.   Twin Cities
I did indeed lead this, twice now infact. I of course did it headpoint style.

The gear is all there, and reasonably spaced. The two cruxes have really good gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall.

This climb ranks right up there with OZ and Poseidon as the best climbs at Palisade in my opinion. Awesome movement on amazingly solid rock with a perfect position.

I had two people take photos yesterday when I led it the second time, so hopefully we can get those posted soon. Sep 6, 2011
Kris Gorny

  5.12 R
Kris Gorny    
  5.12 R
Congrats on the FFA, Rob! Sep 6, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12c
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12c
Right on Rob! What a commiting line in such a stellar spot. Congrats on the FFA. That's a good one. Dec 4, 2011