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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: FA: Dave Groth FFA: Rob Pilaczynski, August 28, 2011.
Page Views: 5,432 total, 40/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Stuck in the spotlight, it is hard to miss the line. Start up Superior Crack for 15 feet or so until you can traverse right onto the arete via edges. The route weaves its way up the arete switching sides now and then, with the crux at a small roof 1/3 or so the way up. Excellent stone and movement.

Protection

Quote from Rob Pilaczynski (FFA):
"The two cruxes have bomber gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a really good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall."
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Right on Rob! What a commiting line in such a stellar spot. Congrats on the FFA. That's a good one. Dec 4, 2011
Kris Gorny

  5.12 R
Kris Gorny    
  5.12 R
Congrats on the FFA, Rob! Sep 6, 2011
Rob P.
Twin Cities
Rob P.   Twin Cities
I did indeed lead this, twice now infact. I of course did it headpoint style.

The gear is all there, and reasonably spaced. The two cruxes have really good gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall.

This climb ranks right up there with OZ and Poseidon as the best climbs at Palisade in my opinion. Awesome movement on amazingly solid rock with a perfect position.

I had two people take photos yesterday when I led it the second time, so hopefully we can get those posted soon. Sep 6, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
that's a super ballsy lead. i'd like to hear some details. was it a headpoint? what gear did he use? got any photos? Sep 1, 2011
Kris Gorny

  5.12 R
Kris Gorny    
  5.12 R
Yes, I heard it was led last weekend by a local climber, Rob P. Sep 1, 2011
James Loveridge
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
James Loveridge   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
I also wanted to add my name to the list of contacts for beta/info. Dave and I are the main activists here recently (along with Jeremy Schlick and Seth Dyer but they have moved to less topographically challenged locales). Please feel free to e-mail us through the "Contact" link on the personal page of this website. Apr 25, 2008
David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
It is a wild and complicated line also really fun. I just did the first TR about 5 years ago. Apr 24, 2008