Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Rick Kollath
Page Views: 997 total · 9/month
Shared By: ChrisZ on Jul 13, 2009
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

Blast up the thin crack and flake system to bigger holds near the top.

Location

In the Laceration Jam area of the Southern Ramparts. About 150' North of the Southern escape Gully or 50' South of Laceration Jam.

Protection

TR. Potentially leadable, but would be pretty dicey with some of the flakes being fairly thin and hollow-sounding.

Photos

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Dave Rone
Custer, SD
  5.10
Dave Rone   Custer, SD  
  5.10
After I did some fairly extensive cleaning, I did an on-sight lead of this line on June 21, 1986. At the time I thought I did the FA of the line, maybe not. Here's the route and gear description from my notes.

Overhanging face to right of Socket Wrench. Climb obvious finger and hand crack 40' to where it ends and ledges go off left. From here, climb straight up, protecting a seam with 1.5-2.5 stoppers and #1 and 2 RP's, while using flakes for holds. Work up and left (crux) until you can step off on top of Socket Wrench (5.10).

Gear: set of stoppers and RP's, cams to #3 Friend. Oct 5, 2013