Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 1996
Page Views: 1,324 total · 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 31, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Once a serious, all natural gear 5.12 lead and one of the first for the grade at Palisade Head. This rowdy pitch has seen natural changes and was then cleaned years after the FFA, but I am sure it has made for better climbing. This intimidating line starts below a small overhang with an undercling in it about 15’ or so right of Ecclesiastes. Like it’s neighbor Ecclesiastes, the climbing off the deck is committing as a ground fall would be serious.

Climb up and out the overhang onto good edges to the seam. The crux comes at you at the 20’/ 25’ mark. A powerful off balance layaway will hopefully get you up enough to fit your tips into an obvious bottleneck jam. #0 TCUs will bolster your confidence at this point. Follow the ever growing crack as it widens to fingers and ends with 15’ of hand jamming and laybacking to a large ledge.

Location

North Anex, right of Ecclesiastes.

Protection

Single set from .3" to #2 Camalot, two #3 camalots, wires.

Photos

randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b/c PG13
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b/c PG13
i did not climb this route before it was cleaned, but i can say that it is definitely not 12b/c PG13. it's more like 11c.

regardless of the grading, it's a fun route. the crux moves are similar to -- albeit easier than -- those on mr. lean.

for gear, i'd recommend: two #3 camalots (one as first piece, which is about 15 ft up; the other for the upper 5.9 section), and singles from purple TCU to #2 camalot. nuts if you want; i didn't place any.

be wary of rock about half-way up bottom section (section before the ledge). there's a couple loose flakes in there. Sep 20, 2009