A Sinner’s Last Gift
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 15 votes
Routes in Palisade Head
A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13 | |
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
A Twister With Teeth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Aching Light T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Avoidance 2x TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Bugaboo Project T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b | |
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Danger High Voltage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Driving in Duluth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R | |
Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c | |
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c | |
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Hyper Light Drifter S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 | |
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mann Act T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R | |
Metamorphosis, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Northern Exposure (***CLOSED***) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Palisaid T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Pamplemoose T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Phantom Corner T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Queen of Venus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Rejuvenation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Scars and Tripes Forever T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c | |
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Soli Deo Gloria T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Sudden Impact TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R | |
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R | |
Superior Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 1996 |
Page Views: | 2,299 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 31, 2006 |
Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Description
Once a serious, all natural gear 5.12 lead and one of the first for the grade at Palisade Head. This rowdy pitch has seen natural changes and was then cleaned years after the FFA, but I am sure it has made for better climbing. This intimidating line starts below a small overhang with an undercling in it about 15’ or so right of Ecclesiastes.
Climb up and out the overhang onto good edges to the seam. The crux comes at you at the 20’/ 25’ mark. A powerful off balance layaway will hopefully get you up enough to fit your tips into an obvious bottleneck jam. #0 TCUs will bolster your confidence at this point. Follow the ever growing crack as it widens to fingers and ends with 15’ of hand jamming and laybacking to a large ledge.
Climb up and out the overhang onto good edges to the seam. The crux comes at you at the 20’/ 25’ mark. A powerful off balance layaway will hopefully get you up enough to fit your tips into an obvious bottleneck jam. #0 TCUs will bolster your confidence at this point. Follow the ever growing crack as it widens to fingers and ends with 15’ of hand jamming and laybacking to a large ledge.
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