Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 1996
Page Views: 1,293 total · 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 31, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Once a serious, all natural gear 5.12 lead and one of the first for the grade at Palisade Head. This rowdy pitch has seen natural changes and was then cleaned years after the FFA, but I am sure it has made for better climbing. This intimidating line starts below a small overhang with an undercling in it about 15’ or so right of Ecclesiastes. Like it’s neighbor Ecclesiastes, the climbing off the deck is committing as a ground fall would be serious.

Climb up and out the overhang onto good edges to the seam. The crux comes at you at the 20’/ 25’ mark. A powerful off balance layaway will hopefully get you up enough to fit your tips into an obvious bottleneck jam. #0 TCUs will bolster your confidence at this point. Follow the ever growing crack as it widens to fingers and ends with 15’ of hand jamming and laybacking to a large ledge.

Location

North Anex, right of Ecclesiastes.

Protection

Single set from .3" to #2 Camalot, two #3 camalots, wires.

Photos

randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b/c PG13
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b/c PG13
i did not climb this route before it was cleaned, but i can say that it is definitely not 12b/c PG13. it's more like 11c.

regardless of the grading, it's a fun route. the crux moves are similar to -- albeit easier than -- those on mr. lean.

for gear, i'd recommend: two #3 camalots (one as first piece, which is about 15 ft up; the other for the upper 5.9 section), and singles from purple TCU to #2 camalot. nuts if you want; i didn't place any.

be wary of rock about half-way up bottom section (section before the ledge). there's a couple loose flakes in there. Sep 20, 2009

More About A Sinner’s Last Gift

Printer-Friendly