Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 1996
Page Views: 2,335 total · 11/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 31, 2006
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Once a serious, all natural gear 5.12 lead and one of the first for the grade at Palisade Head. This rowdy pitch has seen natural changes and was then cleaned years after the FFA, but I am sure it has made for better climbing. This intimidating line starts below a small overhang with an undercling in it about 15’ or so right of Ecclesiastes.

Climb up and out the overhang onto good edges to the seam. The crux comes at you at the 20’/ 25’ mark. A powerful off balance layaway will hopefully get you up enough to fit your tips into an obvious bottleneck jam. #0 TCUs will bolster your confidence at this point. Follow the ever growing crack as it widens to fingers and ends with 15’ of hand jamming and laybacking to a large ledge.

Location Suggest change

North Anex, right of Ecclesiastes.

Protection Suggest change

Single set from .3" to #2 Camalot, two #3 camalots, wires.