Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rick Kollath - FA 2nd pitch, Kurt Hager and Rob Pilaczynski - TR entire route, Alex Ristow - First Lead entire route
Page Views: 394 total · 17/month
Shared By: Taylor Krosbakken on Aug 22, 2018
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

Fun engaging climbing with some confusing options regarding top and bottom half. 

For a long time, only the top half of this climb had been done (from the hanging bolted belay). Although a first pitch had been identified, it had not been free climbed.  In 2018, Kurt Hager and Rob Pilaczynski did the first top rope ascent of the whole route from the talus and then Alex Ristow did the first lead of the whole route shortly thereafter.

What is quite confusing about this climb is that the first “pitch” of this climb doesn’t join the second pitch at the belay station its actually above the belay (see photos). So its one pitch either way, just depends where you start I guess. The second “pitch” is the same as the second pitch of Mital’s Roof which does have a first pitch directly below the bolted anchor and seperate from the first "pitch" of this climb.

I swear I felt the whole upper flake flexing at times so it seemed like it would be pretty spooky to lead.  Also you are either going from old shitty bolts or doing it from the talus which is R rated. So any way you cut it, it’s a pretty serious/scary lead.

I have personally only done the top pitch, so not sure about details on TRing the bottom, but it seems you would need a few directionals since it is not plumb line.

If you do only the top pitch, simply lower/rap to the bolted anchor (definitely don’t trust your life to those old bolts) and climb the corner to the top.
See detailed gear and route beta from Alex in the comments.

Location

Walking north, as the trail heads back up hill and the trees start to get less dense, there is a small split going towards the cliff. Refer to pictures for the top of the climb. If you reach the dihedral of Poseidon's Adventure you have gone too far.

For reference the talus below disappears into the water about a hundred yards past the climb.

Also it is just above the first big roof you can see on the north end.

Protection

Old bolts at the belay. Small stuff for leading. See detailed gear beta for first pitch in comments below. Trees for TR anchor

Photos