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The Fall of Ascomycetes
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Palisade Head
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A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13 |
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A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arms Race T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Driving in Duluth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack, see below) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Night Vision T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Northern Exposure (***CLOSED***) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Phantom Corner T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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“A twister with teeth” T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Rick Kollath - FA 2nd pitch, Kurt Hager and Rob Pilaczynski - TR entire route, Alex Ristow - First Lead entire route |
| Page Views: | 561 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Krosbakken on Aug 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | Kris Gorny, K Ice |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Description
Fun engaging climbing with some confusing options regarding top and bottom half.
For a long time, only the top half of this climb had been done (from the hanging bolted belay). Although a first pitch had been identified, it had not been free climbed. In 2018, Kurt Hager and Rob Pilaczynski did the first top rope ascent of the whole route from the talus and then Alex Ristow did the first lead of the whole route shortly thereafter.
What is quite confusing about this climb is that the first “pitch” of this climb doesn’t join the second pitch at the belay station its actually above the belay (see photos). So its one pitch either way, just depends where you start I guess. The second “pitch” is the same as the second pitch of Mital’s Roof which does have a first pitch directly below the bolted anchor and seperate from the first "pitch" of this climb.
I swear I felt the whole upper flake flexing at times so it seemed like it would be pretty spooky to lead. Also you are either going from old shitty bolts or doing it from the talus which is R rated. So any way you cut it, it’s a pretty serious/scary lead.
I have personally only done the top pitch, so not sure about details on TRing the bottom, but it seems you would need a few directionals since it is not plumb line.
If you do only the top pitch, simply lower/rap to the bolted anchor (definitely don’t trust your life to those old bolts) and climb the corner to the top.
See detailed gear and route beta from Alex in the comments.
For a long time, only the top half of this climb had been done (from the hanging bolted belay). Although a first pitch had been identified, it had not been free climbed. In 2018, Kurt Hager and Rob Pilaczynski did the first top rope ascent of the whole route from the talus and then Alex Ristow did the first lead of the whole route shortly thereafter.
What is quite confusing about this climb is that the first “pitch” of this climb doesn’t join the second pitch at the belay station its actually above the belay (see photos). So its one pitch either way, just depends where you start I guess. The second “pitch” is the same as the second pitch of Mital’s Roof which does have a first pitch directly below the bolted anchor and seperate from the first "pitch" of this climb.
I swear I felt the whole upper flake flexing at times so it seemed like it would be pretty spooky to lead. Also you are either going from old shitty bolts or doing it from the talus which is R rated. So any way you cut it, it’s a pretty serious/scary lead.
I have personally only done the top pitch, so not sure about details on TRing the bottom, but it seems you would need a few directionals since it is not plumb line.
If you do only the top pitch, simply lower/rap to the bolted anchor (definitely don’t trust your life to those old bolts) and climb the corner to the top.
See detailed gear and route beta from Alex in the comments.
Location
Walking north, as the trail heads back up hill and the trees start to get less dense, there is a small split going towards the cliff. Refer to pictures for the top of the climb. If you reach the dihedral of Poseidon's Adventure you have gone too far.
For reference the talus below disappears into the water about a hundred yards past the climb.
Also it is just above the first big roof you can see on the north end.
For reference the talus below disappears into the water about a hundred yards past the climb.
Also it is just above the first big roof you can see on the north end.
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