Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: (FA) Rick Kollath, Dave Pagel, (FFA) James Loveridge
Page Views: 5,882 total · 38/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

Formerly known as "Knife Guys Finish First" (A3). Start on pedestal in corner (Same start as for "Withering Heights" a super dirty and loose 5.11). Sustained thin crack climbing with good pro throughout. Start is protected with two pieces of fixed gear. After that it's small to medium TCU's and/or Aliens. Very good rest in the middle when you need it. Follow crack/shallow-dihedral to dirty alcove 25' from top. At alcove, move left 3' to clean widening crack and follow it to the belay perch.

Location

On the north face of North Tower (prominent buttress N of "Mack The Knife"). The climb ascends the distinct, left trending S-shaped crack system on the northern side of the Tower. Set up anchors on top of the tower to hang over the edge at the nice belay perch 5' below top of tower. Rap to the base of tower (route starts on top of pedestal). NOTE: A 60M rope just makes it to the bottom with rope stretch. If you want to TR, do it from a top belay set up and make sure you place a couple directional's as you rap/lower to the start (a couple small cams to 1" and a draw for upper fixed piece should do it).

Protection

Bring full trad rack, Cams up to #2 Camalot. Heavy on small to medium cams.

Thanks to James Loveridge for providing the detailed route info.

Photos