Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: JJ Schlick (Lead) R.Kollath (TR)
Page Views: 3,561 total · 21/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

A beautiful, airy pitch which climbs out the top half of the wall.

Start on a cushy belay ledge. The climbing starts out with stemming and edges with a few good finger jams below the crux. The crux involves hiking your feet up into a splitter stem, with an awkward jam (I found one finger to be the key) and a slopey crimp. Then deadpointing or stretching for the distant jugs. After your feet are on the jugs think left. At a small ledge with a slight bulge above you work left to easier climbing to the top on good, but still scruffy rock.

Location

The route is about 30 feet south of Road to Emerald City. Maybe 60 feet south of Danger High Voltage.

Protection

Small wires and brass are ticket with some bomber blue Metolius or the same BD down low. The crux is well protected. The top 15 feet or so is run out, but the climbing there is 5.7ish or so. Yellow and orange Metolius or the likes in a jaggedy horizontal are your last pieces. Nuts or small hexes or tricams even may work better here.

Photos