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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: JJ Schlick (Lead) R.Kollath (TR)
Page Views: 3,061 total · 22/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A beautiful, airy pitch which climbs out the top half of the wall.

Start on a cushy belay ledge. The climbing starts out with stemming and edges with a few good finger jams below the crux. The crux involves hiking your feet up into a splitter stem, with an awkward jam (I found one finger to be the key) and a slopey crimp. Then deadpointing or stretching for the distant jugs. After your feet are on the jugs think left. At a small ledge with a slight bulge above you work left to easier climbing to the top on good, but still scruffy rock.

Location

The route is about 30 feet south of Road to Emerald City. Maybe 60 feet south of Danger High Voltage.

Protection

Small wires and brass are ticket with some bomber blue Metolius or the same BD down low. The crux is well protected. The top 15 feet or so is run out, but the climbing there is 5.7ish or so. Yellow and orange Metolius or the likes in a jaggedy horizontal are your last pieces. Nuts or small hexes or tricams even may work better here.
TKrosbakken
Duluth, MN
TKrosbakken   Duluth, MN
RIck,

Climbed this today and there was a yellow feather on the ledge at the start of the easier climbing. Pretty cool.

Fun route! Aug 6, 2016
I found this route in the 80's after climbing past it during the first ascent of the Road to Emerald City. I went back and TR'd it the following Summer. It looked impossible to protect (remember this was the 80s and we had different standards for cleaning back then) but it was a new route so I named it for a small yellow feather I saw on the ledge (remains of a peregrine kill?). Nov 24, 2009
ScottRiz
  5.11b PG13
ScottRiz  
  5.11b PG13
Beta on the setup: Setup as for Oz, but equalize more or less due-south. This involves a couple #1 and/or #2 Camalots and a bunch of webbing or a static rope. No big gear or boulder-slinging necessary! Look for the hand-size crack about twenty feet back from the cliff edge; just behind the deep chasm that parallels the cliff. The dihedral is easy to see once you're leaning over the edge.

This is definitely not PG-13, except maybe for the very top 15-20 feet, which is probably 5.7 or 5.8. Make that last piece count! Oct 14, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11c
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11c
Tops out on a small ledge located 10 ft or so below the top of the cliff. the small ledge is blocked in by a few large boulders and wide cracks (BD 6 and bigger). looking over the edge of the top out, you can just make out the top of the dihedral, which is about 40 ft down.

Solid fixed nchor at the belay ledge.

New pin at the start. Fixed pro at the crux. Otherwise, protection includes nuts and small cams to .5 BD.

Rap/TR anchor takes long webbing (to sling a boulder) and a hand-sized cam (place under boulder located at the cliff's edge). A BD 6 cam can also be used. May 9, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.11d
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.11d
PG-13? This felt pretty secure the whole way. James' good cleaning job makes this a great and safe lead. I recommend this quick fun climb for anyone who likes stem problems. Aug 11, 2008
Frost
  5.11c PG13
Frost  
  5.11c PG13
This is easier than 12a and very worth doing. 1 move crux that isn't rocket science. If you are nervous about dropping a rope on it, go for it! Sep 9, 2007

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