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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
A sinner’s last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Bjork
Page Views: 1,177 total · 8/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 31, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description



If you are looking to lead an all gear 5.12 at Palisade Head then Ecclesiastes should be on top of your list. Although, to be fair, it’s a pretty short list. This classy line starts with some bouldery and committing moves right off the deck, with a terrible landing below. If you blow it and hit the deck, there’s a good chance you won’t be walking away from it, let alone climbing out. Rough water behind you could certainly put the fear of god in you.

At 15’ you will reach your first good piece of gear, a #1 BD. Above this the crack opens up into a splitter of sorts, with killer positioning and just enough face relief to keep the rest of the route in the .10+ range. You can belay on the ledge or continue to the top with some bigger cams (#2, #3 BD).

Location

North Annex

Protection

An assortment of cams, wires.

Photos

Jeff Kolehmainen
Eagan, MN
Jeff Kolehmainen   Eagan, MN
I think the FA was Paul Bjork. Nov 5, 2007
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
fun line. crack system in the middle reminds me of the lower section (past the crux, before no hands rest and start of the dihedral) of don't bring a knife to a gun fight.

first good/worthwhile piece is a #1 camalot. after that, takes small cams, mainly red and orange TCU's. above the ledge, takes a #3 and a #2 camalot (or just two #2s). Sep 20, 2009
Taylor Krosbakken
Duluth, MN
Taylor Krosbakken   Duluth, MN
This sounds insane, but the large boulders (can be seen in Kris's photos above) at the base of the climb are no longer there. I guess Superior had other plans for them.

I remembered starting while standing on these boulder and being able to reach the start holds. With the boulders no longer there you effectively start about 4 ft lower making the opening moves quite a bit harder. I was not able to go straight up, but had to start up Praise the Many Seraphim and traverse over, and that was still very hard, maybe V5-6.

I believe this happened during the winter of 2017/2018. So if you have flailed on this climb recently, don't worry its not you.... or at least now you have an excuse. 6 days ago
Kris Gorny

  5.12 PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.12 PG13
I also saw the bottom boulders are missing -- amazing. The route now has extra few feet for the start on difficult unprotected moves with non-existing footholds. In the past the first piece protecting ground fall could be placed from the ground standing on top of the large boulder (seen in first pic). Now one has to climb past that spot and I think the route is harder and most likely full-on X. 6 days ago
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12 PG13
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12 PG13
Wow must have been quite the storm! Every good trad crag needs an X rated 5.12. Too bad it’s this one:( A pin or blade is still natural protection:) 6 days ago

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