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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Peter L Scott and Chris Holbeck, 1988.
Page Views: 4,248 total, 32/month
Shared By: Travis Hibbard on Feb 16, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

From RCM&W

A short but excellent, thin hand crack with good rests and the requisite manky pin at the crux. From the ledge, follow the obvious crack straight up to a crux near the top.

Protection

#2 camalots & Smaller
Shane Steele
Grand Marais, MN
  5.10c
Shane Steele   Grand Marais, MN
  5.10c
I noticed today that the famous fixed pin which protects the crux is gone. Not sure about others, but I always clipped this before pulling the final moves, I even fell on it once. Sep 21, 2017
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
 
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
 
Great route, it's just so short for the Head! Sep 11, 2017
I left a stuck #3 today 8/7/17. If anyone gets it out I would love to buy you a case of beer or something in exchange for it back. Aug 7, 2017
There's a lost arrow and rusty bolt at the starting belay ledge. I reinforced it with a #5 C4. My rack suggestion would be three #2 C4, one #3 C4, and a #1 and #2 Metolius Master cam near the top below the pin. Aug 1, 2015
Scott Schumann
SLC, UT
 
Scott Schumann   SLC, UT
 
So classic. Every year I worked for the Voyageur Outward Bound in Ely we'd make a pilgrimage to climb at Palisade and specifically to climb Urge to Mate. This route is awesome: hands at the bottom and steep cruxy face moves at the top. It's a must climb for the area! Love it!

Find the top by looking for the small "Headstonish" looking rock facing away from the lake. Nov 29, 2012
FA Peter Scott circa 1988
Not Chris Holbeck (He's a friend of mine and can confirm this) he was the belayer on the FA

Originally there was a loose block at the beginning of the crack (see photo) that I later trundled and then reclimbed the route. This made the initial crack longer.

I love the belay ledge on this route! The position is incredible .

Glad to see people climbing this route. Sep 20, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
calling this route thin hands is debatable. i never placed anything smaller than a #2. gear: 2-3 #2 camalots, #3 camalot, few runners. route is maybe 45 feet long. long webbing for belay/top rope anchor helps. belay at ledge takes small cams and/or nuts. i used a orange tcu, yellow tcu, and a medium/large nut. Jun 23, 2008