Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Peter L Scott and Chris Holbeck, 1988.
Page Views: 4,828 total · 33/month
Shared By: Travis Hibbard on Feb 16, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

From RCM&W

A short but excellent, thin hand crack with good rests and the requisite manky pin at the crux. From the ledge, follow the obvious crack straight up to a crux near the top.

Protection

#2 camalots & Smaller
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
calling this route thin hands is debatable. i never placed anything smaller than a #2. gear: 2-3 #2 camalots, #3 camalot, few runners. route is maybe 45 feet long. long webbing for belay/top rope anchor helps. belay at ledge takes small cams and/or nuts. i used a orange tcu, yellow tcu, and a medium/large nut. Jun 23, 2008
Peter L Scott
Pequot Lakes, MN
 
Peter L Scott   Pequot Lakes, MN
 
FA Peter Scott circa 1988
Not Chris Holbeck (He's a friend of mine and can confirm this) he was the belayer on the FA

Originally there was a loose block at the beginning of the crack (see photo) that I later trundled and then reclimbed the route. This made the initial crack longer.

I love the belay ledge on this route! The position is incredible .

Glad to see people climbing this route. Sep 20, 2011
Scott Schumann
SLC, UT
 
Scott Schumann   SLC, UT
 
So classic. Every year I worked for the Voyageur Outward Bound in Ely we'd make a pilgrimage to climb at Palisade and specifically to climb Urge to Mate. This route is awesome: hands at the bottom and steep cruxy face moves at the top. It's a must climb for the area! Love it!

Find the top by looking for the small "Headstonish" looking rock facing away from the lake. Nov 29, 2012
There's a lost arrow and rusty bolt at the starting belay ledge. I reinforced it with a #5 C4. My rack suggestion would be three #2 C4, one #3 C4, and a #1 and #2 Metolius Master cam near the top below the pin. Aug 1, 2015
David Murphy
Duluth, MN
David Murphy   Duluth, MN
I left a stuck #3 today 8/7/17. If anyone gets it out I would love to buy you a case of beer or something in exchange for it back. Aug 7, 2017
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
 
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
 
Great route, it's just so short for the Head! Sep 11, 2017
Shane Steele
Grand Marais, MN
  5.10c
Shane Steele   Grand Marais, MN
  5.10c
I noticed today that the famous fixed pin which protects the crux is gone. Not sure about others, but I always clipped this before pulling the final moves, I even fell on it once. Sep 21, 2017
I saw last weekend that the pin near the top is back. Jul 10, 2018