Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,453 total · 58/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on Nov 15, 2006 with updates from Bob Westman
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Description

Great fun popular 2 pitch mid difficulty crack route that follows along lightning cables at bottom and moves right of the cables for top half. There are a couple ways to climb the first half of the first pitch.

Location

Around the corner (right) from south end of Amphitheater area - middle of the "Big Wall Area".
Look for the black lightning cable coming out of the ground. Follow the crack that it runs through.

Protection

All sizes? Offwith protection..
Have a big bro or a BIG Cam or your going to be running out the end of the 1st pitch Feb 20, 2007
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
Agreed. I led this with a #6 Camalot (and no big-bros) and there was only one spot in the last 30-40ft of the 1st pitch that was small enough for it. It was nearly fully expanded and I had to reach in as far as I could to place it (note: I'm 6'2"). This made a really fun climb, rather nerve racking.

In short, bring BIG-BROS! May 24, 2010
In retrospect I could've been a little better with my gear beta...

Once you make it about 35-40 ft up the route the chimney begins, for the first 15-20 ft there are .75 and #2 placements in a crack on the pillar right of the chimney....after that to the pedestal belay a #4 big bro works best. A #6 C4 as mentioned above is really tipped out for protection... May 28, 2010
DeanG
Woodbury, MN
DeanG   Woodbury, MN
We top roped this two weeks ago and pulled off a huge block near the top. It was about 1ft thick x 3 ft wide and 6 ft tall. The top of the climb is a bit harder now Jul 5, 2011
A friend and I led this route a couple week ago and pulled off the huge block just below the chimney. Very scary, but also pretty awesome to witness! I have yet to climb it since, so I'm not sure if the difficult has changed as a result. Jul 25, 2016
KurtH
 
KurtH  
 
I am so glad / cannot believe you are OK!!! I saw how much rock broke off the first pitch this weekend. Like 1,000s of pounds...you can see it at the bottom broken into pieces...terrifying.

The climb is a bit harder now that the second crack isn't an option to use. A longer and more committing offwidth section was left, similar to Superior Crack. Aug 8, 2016