Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Dave Pagel
Page Views: 7,001 total · 49/month
Shared By: Travis Hibbard on Feb 15, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

From RCM&W

A long, forbidding, dark corner forms the first major break in the clifftop to the north of Laceration Jam. Your mission is to reach that corner and climb it. Start about 10' north of a right-facing corner and work up to a small bush. Forge boldly past a wide section (5.9) to the continuously difficult crack above.

Protection

Doubles from .75 to 2, long route

Photos

randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
this route is a blast! don't shy away from the route because of the falcon guide description. in addition to recommendations above, multiple runners (the crack flares at times), as well as two #3 and two #4 camalots are helpful. route is probably 200' long. flared sections reminded me of yosemite, only with better friction, sharp rock, and features everywhere. recommend belaying from base of the wall and not on the first shelf, which is only 5 feet off the ground but is small and not level. route is also sheltered from winds coming out of the north. May 12, 2008
J.Roatch
Leavenworth, WA
  5.10c
J.Roatch   Leavenworth, WA
  5.10c
Wonderful climb, harder that it looks from the bottom.

Description from Superior Climbs:
A crack climbing smorgasbord: body, hands and fingers. This is a very long pitch featuring exposed and sustained climbing up good flakes and corners. Highlights include sharp hand jams and encounters with rock tripe.


-while we didn't experience a whole lot of tripe today, the rest is very accurate. IMO its more on the 5.10B-D range. Strong lead.

Also, saw some Peregrines very, very near so they may be nesting near here/laceration jam. Keep an ear out for what the park service mentions about nesting this year (Peregrine Falcons sometimes change where they are nesting on the shore) Mar 25, 2012
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
  5.10c
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
  5.10c
This route is less than 200ft (around 170 to 180ft) so no worries with a 60m rope.

tape will help avoid some 'scars' May 6, 2012

Red arrows indicate crack through the rock seemingly used as anchor for Scars and Tripes. Rock can be notably moved inwards when pressing on it. Caution using gear at this anchor point. April 25th 2015. Apr 25, 2015