Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,205 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

Another popular route. Follow the chimney and large flake system to the top. Some of the holds can a bit hard to find, adding to the fun a bit. Often done as a top rope but leadable with large gear.
  • RCM&W #48, p.214.

Location

The crack is located about half way between Bluebells and Superior Crack.

Protection

Larger gear #2-#5 camalots, and some big bros. Standard top rope setup.
Sonnabend
West Saint Paul, MN
 
Sonnabend   West Saint Paul, MN
 
This is a great route to do on top rope, would also be a fun lead if you have big enough gear. Lots of interesting moves on this route, it can be as difficult or as easy as you want it to be depending on how you approach it. Lots of fun. May 17, 2010
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.8
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.8
To make this a pretty safe lead you would want to have a #2 for your first piece. Then 2x #4 C4 for your second and third pieces and then place a #5 and walk it up to the pillar thing. Sling the base of the pillar with a long sling (I used a 120cm sling and an alpine drawn). After slinging the pillar, grab your #5 and place it above the pillar and walk it up for a little bit. Then walk a #6 the last 20 feet of easy climbing to the top.

Don't actually place a cam behind the pillar, I don't know how solid it is but, it's definitely good enough to sling the base of it.

If you feel okay about walking a couple cams then go lead this!! It's such a great route! Sep 6, 2016