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All Locations > Minnesota > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head

Quetico Crack

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British


 Avg: 2.5 from 62 votes

Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
A sinner’s last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,050 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Another popular route. Follow the chimney and large flake system to the top. Some of the holds can a bit hard to find, adding to the fun a bit. Often done as a top rope but leadable with large gear.
  • RCM&W #48, p.214.

Location

The crack is located about half way between Bluebells and Superior Crack.

Protection

Larger gear #2-#5 camalots, and some big bros. Standard top rope setup.

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Photos

Climber Joe Lee <br> Photo by Anthony Johnson (agjohnsphotography)
Climber Joe Lee Photo by Anthony Johnson (agjo…
 3
Leading Quetico Crack!
Leading Quetico Crack!
 0
Leading Quetico Crack!
Leading Quetico Crack!
 0
Evan on a smooth and impressive lead of this excellent route.
Evan on a smooth and impressive lead of this ex…
 0
Half way point.
Half way point.
 0
The small lower corner takes a little thinking.
The small lower corner takes a little thinking.
 0
Sean Sonnabend topping out on Quetico Crack. Thanks for the belay Cora :)<br> Photo: Lynn Sonnabend
Sean Sonnabend topping out on Quetico Crack. Th…
 0
Sean Sonnabend near the base of Quetico Crack. Looking down from the top of Superior Crack.<br> Photo: Lynn Sonnabend
Sean Sonnabend near the base of Quetico Crack.…
 0

2 Comments

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Sonnabend
West Saint Paul, MN
 
Sonnabend   West Saint Paul, MN
 
This is a great route to do on top rope, would also be a fun lead if you have big enough gear. Lots of interesting moves on this route, it can be as difficult or as easy as you want it to be depending on how you approach it. Lots of fun. May 17, 2010
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.8
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.8
To make this a pretty safe lead you would want to have a #2 for your first piece. Then 2x #4 C4 for your second and third pieces and then place a #5 and walk it up to the pillar thing. Sling the base of the pillar with a long sling (I used a 120cm sling and an alpine drawn). After slinging the pillar, grab your #5 and place it above the pillar and walk it up for a little bit. Then walk a #6 the last 20 feet of easy climbing to the top.

Don't actually place a cam behind the pillar, I don't know how solid it is but, it's definitely good enough to sling the base of it.

If you feel okay about walking a couple cams then go lead this!! It's such a great route! Sep 6, 2016

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