Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,207 total · 19/month
Shared By: Rob P. on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

(from the Falcon Guide) At least one person has liked this climb, though the torture never stops.

This climb is an off-width lover's delight! Or an absolute nightmare for everyone else. It starts with a fist crack and quickly widens to the first crux of chicken winging akwardness. After your wrists hurt and you're already sore, take a rest on a nice ledge and then go into the squeeze chimney to the top.

Location

On the south side before laceration jam area. Look for the wide crack with the obvious chock stone 5-10 feet down.

Protection

Some old pitons scattered...deffinitly want big gear if leading.

Photos

josh columb
Saint Paul, Minnesota
josh columb   Saint Paul, Minnesota
I toproped this route earlier this summer, there are two pitons that I saw, one at the ledge at the start of the route and one 10-15 ft below top out on the face (climbers left). The first half of the climb, before the midway ledge has some chockstones in it wich could be slung on lead but we used them for hand holds and that reduced the difficulty quite a bit. Getting into the crack above thew ledge was the crux. Not as hard as ahabs. Aug 25, 2009
ferrells
  5.9+
ferrells  
  5.9+
I loved this climb. Not quite as hard as
Generator Crack , however. May be 10a, but Im not sure it quite gets there. Sep 1, 2013
I liked this. I measured the crack at different points with some thought of coming back some day and leading it. Unfortunately I don't know if they make a big-bro wide enough.

The route starts at the ledge where the crack ends and at its lowest point is 3.5 inches wide, becomes 9 inches, and after the ledge mid-route is 15 inches wide (narrowing to 13 inches at some points). There is a piton off to the left face above that mid-route ledge. Towards the top, when your whole body is well into the crack, there's a smaller fist sized crack in a right side wall that could potentially be used for protection too. Aug 1, 2015
Ok, led it on Saturday and it's not too bad for protection. C4 sizes: #4, #6, blue big bro, continue to big ledge, move up and clip piton on outside of crack (left), #4 would go in the deeper inner crack if you wanted it (but it's super secure chimmney by that point). I didn't do any nut placements in flakes on the outside of the crack because they're actually kind of loose feeling. Sep 6, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
Nice lead Eric! Sep 6, 2016