Type: Trad
FA: Dave Groth- Mid 90’s
Page Views: 7,990 total · 53/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Also known as Palace-Aid. Featured in Rock and Ice article, "Head Games" , as one of the seven US routes to die for, which is remarkable for a route in Midwest ("To die for: North America's 7 most dangerous head points", Rock and Ice, issue 138, 2004).

This former aid line was originally envisioned as a free route by Mike Dahlberg and Scott Backes (they added two bolts at 30 ft from start), and completed by Dave Groth in the late 90's. It remains one of a few hard test pieces at the crag, and features technical climbing over good gear. The route remained unrepeated for almost a decade until Chris Hirsch got the 2nd ascent in 2007.

Follow seams and thin cracks past several cruxes up a long thin line on the clean face to the left of Hidden Treasure. It's hard to miss if you are looking for it!

Protection

Wires, small to medium cams, 2 bolts
Ben Bodenhamer
Madras, OR
 
Ben Bodenhamer   Madras, OR
 
What an amazing climb, I can wait to get back and go for the redpoint!!! Aug 6, 2007
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
Superb line. Aug 27, 2007
whatever happened to the endless bickering comments for this route? i found all that stuff pretty fun to read. it's not too often that a minnesota route conjures up so much heat. Apr 30, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
That's just cabin fever talk. That and half frozen heads. Apr 30, 2008
David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
We may need to start bickering over this again to get the right grade in the revised falcon guide Apr 11, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
No need for that Dave. Definitely a hard line. I was probably just having a strong year:) Apr 11, 2009