Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Dave Pagel
Page Views: 1,651 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brennanand on May 8, 2012 with updates from Steve Linn
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Start in a 4-5" crack and continue up discontinuous cracks that vary in size from .5" to 2" for about 60-70 feet. Crux seems to be 15 feet from the top. Pro is very good, can be easily protected all the way up the climb. Cracks are not "junky" but may be dirty due to the lack of traffic. The climb is very fun and should be on your list if you're at Palisade. This beach is calm, quiet, and sunny in the afternoon. Why not climb here?

Location

If your starting at the Palisade parking lot, head south for a good ten minutes or maybe 500 yards to the area called "The South Annex." You can either repel to the beach or climb down the gully that is on the southwestern side of the beach. The gully is a little sketchy and very poor rock to scramble on. A 30 ft piece of webbing would be sufficient to protect your decent. Once your at the beach head left or east (about 40 yards) to a very obvious crack system. There is a left facing dihedral (that goes almost halfway up the cliff) to the right of the climb.

Protection

Rack:
.3" to 4" BD Cams (may help to have 2 #2's and 2 #.75's)
The nuts and hexes could easily be left out.

Photos

Brennanand
  5.10a
Brennanand  
  5.10a
Great climb, fun crack climbing esp. for MN. Who has the first free ascent? Anyone know? Last weekend was my first trad onsight of that climb. May 8, 2012
Jake Vavricka
Gunnison, CO
Jake Vavricka   Gunnison, CO
any pics? May 12, 2012
For the rack, I'd recommend singles in C4 up to #2 (maybe double up on some tiny sizes). Also, avoid high-tide! By evening when I started this, the waves were just at the point where it would get your shoes wet at the start. Rock felt kind of loose on this one. Aug 1, 2015
Taylor Krosbakken
Duluth, MN
Taylor Krosbakken   Duluth, MN
According to the guidebook it's Dave Pagel for the FA. Apr 20, 2018