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Routes in Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
A sinner’s last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger High Voltage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Driving in Duluth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Progress, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Goliath's Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Maiden T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Palisaid T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phantom Corner TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scars and Tripes Forever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soli Deo Gloria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Superior Arete T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Superior Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA (Toprope) Paul Bjork - FA (Lead) Dave Groth
Page Views: 3,238 total · 24/month
Shared By: James Loveridge on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Start right of obvious thin crack and climb left up shattered rail to base of thin crack. Place small cams and/or bomber nuts as you climb thin crack and face holds on left passing a fixed piece below overlap/small roof. Pull small roof passing another fixed piece on crimps & side-pulls to gain shattered rail on the left. Work rightward up rail to a not-as-restful-as-you-think-it-will-be rest alcove with fixed pins. Go up trending slightly rightward placing gear in slots as you pass. There's a bit of a kick in the ass at the finish. Good gear (albeit sometimes awkard to place) throughout. Excellent route with great movement and interesting sequences! Reasonable lead as well as fun TR.

Location

This climb is on the Northern Ramparts section, south of No Sugar, No Baby and north of Ecclesiastes. The top is fairly easy to find: between the aforementioned climbs look for a place where the cliff juts out a bit. There is a prominent clump-o-trees about 5 feet back from the edge. You will see a notch in the bare rock cliff edge just in front of the tree clump. That's the top of the route.

Protection

Bring small to medium Stoppers, Cams to #2, Heavy on small (.3 Camalot) to Medium (#1 Camalot) cams. Draws and a couple 24" runners
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.12a
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.12a
Climbing really flows nicely on this route. A BD#3 fits great in a horizontal near the top. Sep 2, 2009
Rob P.
Twin Cities
Rob P.   Twin Cities
Wow, what a fun climb! Great movement and good pro. Aug 12, 2011
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
  5.11c/d
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
  5.11c/d
Awesome route!!! Big moves on big holds! Felt way pumpier, but still easier than Poseidon Aug 20, 2012
Elliott686 Bernhagen
Tonka bay, MN
Elliott686 Bernhagen   Tonka bay, MN
Ryan I think you should lead it before downgrading Nov 11, 2012
I agree with Elliott lead it first. The routes are graded for an onsite lead.....how else would you do it? Dec 3, 2012
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
i can't believe i'm doing this....

compared to most traditional areas in the US, palisade is soft. LET ME BE CLEAR: I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH PALISADE BEING CONSIDERED A "SOFT" CLIFF. palisade is no gunks. it's no yosemite. it's no seneca rocks or new river gorge. THAT'S COMPLETE FINE. NOT EVERY CRAG HAS TO BE A SAND BAGGING, SOUL CRUSHING AFFAIR.

what's important, though, is that we recognize that 12b at palisade is no where near -- not even in the same ball park, not even the same country! -- as 12b in yosemite (especially on el cap). so, i onsighted soli and OZ and flashed palisaid. does that mean i can do that in the gunks? HELL NO. does that make palisade any less of a crag? HELL NO.

you get me? Dec 5, 2012
Dave Rone
Custer, SD
  5.12b
Dave Rone   Custer, SD  
  5.12b
Randy, I don't get you at all. The thread had nothing to do with rating comparisons between different areas of the country. Everyone knows they vary and, who cares? Usually, when I can't believe I'm doing something,I shouldn't be. And by the way, congratulations on your flashes and onsights. Dec 5, 2012
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
dave r., the comment was meant for dave g. i should have addressed it to him or maybe sent it as a private message.

anyway, it's too late for that now, so let me give you some background. dave g. alluded to the subject of grades when he said, "The routes are graded for an onsite lead." over the past few years there has been much discussion of the grades at palisade, with some calling into question the grades of the area and others pushing back, saying the ratings are accurate. in my opinion, the basis for this debate is wrong. this is because routes should not be graded across crags. rather, they should be graded according to other routes at the crag. (this is of course not true in extreme cases -- i.e. calling a barely vert jug haul 5.15a). i understand that my argument may seem self-evident to you, but it may not be so to others.

as for the preface for my comment, i rarely discuss grades. the conversations seldom produce any insights or productive discussion. so, the "i can't believe i'm doing this..." comment was an attempt to pacify any haters. obviously, i failed.

lastly, no congratulations needed. this is the first time, outside of my climbing partners, that i've told anyone about these sends. this shit is nothing. there are 10 year-olds in boulder who i'm sure would warm up on these climbs. Dec 5, 2012
I normally try and restraint from being sucked into these posts...i should follow my own advice....lol

I know this route has been cleaned up a bunch after I lead it so maybe i need to go back and do it again. Maybe it is 5.11 now. It stood as a 5.12 since Paul's TR in the late 80's, when I did it I thought it was a/b.

Styles and strenghts also change with time, for an old school trad climber Poseidon adventure would be a lot easier than Soli.

Onsight lead flashes of those routes are impressive! maybe give your climbing skill and training some credit!

I feel Yosemite grades a soft as well....depends were your stenghts lay... Dec 6, 2012
Kris Gorny

  5.12-
Kris Gorny    
  5.12-
Randy- are you saying you flash-led Palisaid? That is impressive by any standard. Regardless of the place. Dec 6, 2012
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
holden, touche! my explanation is that i was younger and more stupid when i made those downgrades. :) i went back and changed all the grades to the standard grades. you should also note that i've stopped giving grades for climbs. i just give stars, now.

dave g., i think that you are dead-on when you point out that the climbs at palisade have cleaned-up since their FAs and that has made some of them easier. however, i don't agree with you saying yosemite is soft. all told, i've been to the valley for seven or so trips, all of which anywhere from two-five weeks long. and while i've found a few soft lines, most routes (and boulder problems) were nails, especially the lines on el cap. that's awesome that you climb so well there. you need to teach me your tricks before i go back!

and to all, stop with the congratulations. i have a buddy who onsighted all the 12s, plus palisade, at palisade. he did this more or less in two days. the only rig he didn't try was aching alms, a climb which i think has yet to see a repeat. 5.12 OW is not a very popular style, i guess. Dec 6, 2012
My gear recommendation: #.2, #0(master cam), #.4, #.75(1 or 2), #1 or #.5, #2 (for horizontal crack about 8 feet from the top), 4 quickdraws for the pins and bolts. Sep 5, 2017

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