Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA (Toprope) Paul Bjork - FA (Lead) Dave Groth
Page Views: 4,114 total · 27/month
Shared By: James Loveridge on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

Start right of obvious thin crack and climb left up shattered rail to base of thin crack. Place small cams and/or bomber nuts as you climb thin crack and face holds on left passing a fixed piece below overlap/small roof. Pull small roof passing another fixed piece on crimps & side-pulls to gain shattered rail on the left. Work rightward up rail to a not-as-restful-as-you-think-it-will-be rest alcove with fixed pins. Go up trending slightly rightward placing gear in slots as you pass. There's a bit of a kick in the ass at the finish. Good gear (albeit sometimes awkard to place) throughout. Excellent route with great movement and interesting sequences! Reasonable lead as well as fun TR.

Location

This climb is on the Northern Ramparts section, south of No Sugar, No Baby and north of Ecclesiastes. The top is fairly easy to find: between the aforementioned climbs look for a place where the cliff juts out a bit. There is a prominent clump-o-trees about 5 feet back from the edge. You will see a notch in the bare rock cliff edge just in front of the tree clump. That's the top of the route.

Protection

Bring small to medium Stoppers, Cams to #2, Heavy on small (.3 Camalot) to Medium (#1 Camalot) cams. Draws and a couple 24" runners

Photos