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Mirage Direct Finish
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Laurel Knob
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'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Biopsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 |
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Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Gibbet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High & Dry T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Hostis Humani Generis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mechanical Bull T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0 |
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Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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O.K. Corral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Permission Granite T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pipsissewa T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Quantum Mechanic's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
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Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Seconds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Stranger Than Friction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Tastes Like Chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 R |
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Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Andrew M. and Shannon Stegg |
| Page Views: | 2,162 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew McDowell on Nov 20, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2024
Details
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is a good direct finish to mirage with pumpy overhanging terrain with good holds for LK (including a few jugs on an overhanging wall!). Since it is climbable when the groove is running, it is a great year round route.
Warning: climbing at Laurel Knob is especially dangerous due to runouts, sometimes questionable anchors/protection, difficult route finding, rappel descents, and other factors. The information on this route posting is provided for informational purposes only to aid in community discussions and to aid in understanding where the route has been climbed before. Information provided may be inaccurate, incomplete, misleading, and/or highly subjective. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk and should not rely on any information in this posting. There is no implication by this posting that fixed anchors and removable protection locations, including those described, are safe or adequate to protect further ascents.
As described below, it starts from the top of pitch 3 of mirage. Though very good, Pitches one and 2 of mirage are usually wet so an alternative way to get to the start of this direct finish is to climb to the top of the second pitch of Oasis and then climb 5.8 slab to the 2 bolt anchor in the lower oasis. Pitch 3 of mirage goes through the headwall here to the upper oasis then the direct finish goes straight through the headwall above the upper oasis instead of going out right to lower angled terrain as the standard finish to mirage does. The direct finish is very much climbable when the groove is running water as was done on the FA and FFA and the rope does not get wet.
Pitch A: Climb overhanging orange corner with bomber gear to a jug on the overhanging wall. Clip a bolt then make bouldery thin face moves left to get established in deep water groove. Climb the usually wet groove past 3 more bolts to 2 bolt anchor. (5.12b, 90 feet). The crux is mandatory free climbing. It took me a lot of whippers to finally get these moves and make it over to the groove on the FA. The groove was bolted with bolts not all that far apart since it is wet most of the time including during the FA.
Pitch B Climb face right of groove past some gear to ledgy area then continue up to a bolt in a bulge and make bouldery moves to get established over the bulge and into the much easier groove to the left. Continue to belay at one bolt and gear in a pod (#1 and #2 camalots)(I did not put in this bolt and have no idea what route it is part of) (5.12a, 120 feet)
From here you can traverse left to anchors of permission granite or fathom direct to rappel or you can continue straight up the easy groove above to the top (an alternate finish to fathom)
Both pitches were pinkpointed on the FFA
Location
Protection
before first bolt on Pitch A, a rack of nuts and cams to #2 camalot is needed for the short corner (hybrids useful) after the 2nd bolt on that pitch, there is a brown tricam placement.
On Pitch B, a light rack of cams to #2 camalot is needed. Hybrids are useful as always
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