Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||Andrew Mcdowell, Nathan Brown 2012|
|Page Views:||4,613 total · 46/month|
|Shared By:||nbrown on Apr 10, 2012|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
In addition - all 2020 raptor closures on the Nantahala Pisgah NF are LIFTED as of 6/29/2020
The route climbs the first 2 pitches of an old unfinished Haslam/Shull line along the amazing dike, and then continues along the same dike for one more pitch before gaining what is probably the largest and deepest groove on the wall.
Note: last I heard, Brian and Harrison were still interested in finishing their line up the groove that our traversing P3 crosses over, so we have refrained from climbing that.
P-1 Start below Groover in a short left facing corner. Climb up past some gear to a line of bolts that angle up and right along the large dike to a 2 bolt belay. 5.10
P-2 Continue along the dike for nearly a ropelength and belay just shy of a (usually) wet groove. This is the groove that Haslam/Shull intended on finishing the line with. 5.10
P-3 Climb past the first 2 bolts (Haslam/Shull) and cross the groove. Continue moving right along the dike passing a bolt for "Fruit Of The Poisonous Tree". Continue past some cams and a bolt to the Forbidden Fruit groove. Just past FF, clip a bolt and do a funky down-mantel and clip another bolt. Follow the dike another 30' to a belay just shy of the monster groove. 5.10
P-4 Climb the monster groove past bolts and gear (red C-3 is crucial above the 3rd bolt) to where the line moves into a smaller, right hand groove. Follow this up to a bolted belay. 5.11a
P-5 There are 2 good variations for this pitch:
Left variation - Move back left into the monster groove and climb this deep groove (chimney) past gear and bolts for about 190' to a bolted belay out right. 5.9+
Right variation - Move up and right and follow the cool streak and shallow groove past 4 bolts and gear to the same anchor. 5.10+
P-6 Move back left into the groove and follow it to the top, passing 1 bolt to a bolted anchor at 190'.