Dike hike - Monster Groove
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | Andrew Mcdowell, Nathan Brown 2012 |
Page Views: | 6,089 total · 39/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Apr 10, 2012 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Laurel Knob Jan 15- Aug 14: All routes in the Dillard Canyon are closed to climbing during this period.
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is an excellent and surprisingly moderate line up the tallest part of this huge wall, and it ascends some very unique and contrasting features. As the name suggests, the lower half follows a huge dike, and the upper half follows a huge groove. With the exception of one 5.11 move (that can easily be A0'ed) the whole line is 5.10 and under. The exposure is big for this route due to the traversing nature of the line and the steepness of the wall below!
The route climbs the first 2 pitches of an old unfinished Haslam/Shull line along the amazing dike, and then continues along the same dike for one more pitch before gaining what is probably the largest and deepest groove on the wall.
Note: last I heard, Brian and Harrison were still interested in finishing their line up the groove that our traversing P3 crosses over, so we have refrained from climbing that.
P-1 Start below Groover in a short left facing corner. Climb up past some gear to a line of bolts that angle up and right along the large dike to a 2 bolt belay. 5.10
P-2 Continue along the dike for nearly a ropelength and belay just shy of a (usually) wet groove. This is the groove that Haslam/Shull intended on finishing the line with. 5.10
P-3 Climb past the first 2 bolts (Haslam/Shull) and cross the groove. Continue moving right along the dike passing a bolt for "Fruit Of The Poisonous Tree". Continue past some cams and a bolt to the Forbidden Fruit groove. Just past FF, clip a bolt and do a funky down-mantel and clip another bolt. Follow the dike another 30' to a belay just shy of the monster groove. 5.10
P-4 Climb the monster groove past bolts and gear (red C-3 is crucial above the 3rd bolt) to where the line moves into a smaller, right hand groove. Follow this up to a bolted belay. 5.11a
P-5 There are 2 good variations for this pitch:
Left variation - Move back left into the monster groove and climb this deep groove (chimney) past gear and bolts for about 190' to a bolted belay out right. 5.9+
Right variation - Move up and right and follow the cool streak and shallow groove past 4 bolts and gear to the same anchor. 5.10+
P-6 Move back left into the groove and follow it to the top, passing 1 bolt to a bolted anchor at 190'.
The route climbs the first 2 pitches of an old unfinished Haslam/Shull line along the amazing dike, and then continues along the same dike for one more pitch before gaining what is probably the largest and deepest groove on the wall.
Note: last I heard, Brian and Harrison were still interested in finishing their line up the groove that our traversing P3 crosses over, so we have refrained from climbing that.
P-1 Start below Groover in a short left facing corner. Climb up past some gear to a line of bolts that angle up and right along the large dike to a 2 bolt belay. 5.10
P-2 Continue along the dike for nearly a ropelength and belay just shy of a (usually) wet groove. This is the groove that Haslam/Shull intended on finishing the line with. 5.10
P-3 Climb past the first 2 bolts (Haslam/Shull) and cross the groove. Continue moving right along the dike passing a bolt for "Fruit Of The Poisonous Tree". Continue past some cams and a bolt to the Forbidden Fruit groove. Just past FF, clip a bolt and do a funky down-mantel and clip another bolt. Follow the dike another 30' to a belay just shy of the monster groove. 5.10
P-4 Climb the monster groove past bolts and gear (red C-3 is crucial above the 3rd bolt) to where the line moves into a smaller, right hand groove. Follow this up to a bolted belay. 5.11a
P-5 There are 2 good variations for this pitch:
Left variation - Move back left into the monster groove and climb this deep groove (chimney) past gear and bolts for about 190' to a bolted belay out right. 5.9+
Right variation - Move up and right and follow the cool streak and shallow groove past 4 bolts and gear to the same anchor. 5.10+
P-6 Move back left into the groove and follow it to the top, passing 1 bolt to a bolted anchor at 190'.
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